Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant has introduced Pickmulse, a novel o/w, surfactant-free emulsifier and encapsulation system based on a patented quinoa starch technology. According to the company, Pickmulse enables the easy formulation of Pickering emulsions, is surfactant free, enhances the sensory attributes of formulas and has the proven ability to create positive emotions.
Surfactant-free and Sensorial for Sensitive Skin, Microbiome and Well-being
Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and the importance of maintaining the skin microbiota, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant reports. Responding to this, Pickmulse (INCI: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate) was developed as a surfactant-free emulsifier to better preserve skin balance, compared with traditional emulsifiers.
In addition, due to the small size of the quinoa starch particles, the product allows for the easy formulation of Pickering emulsions (i.e., particle-stabilized emulsions) with outstanding sensory skin feel.
In fact, the company tested the ingredient's tactile experience through functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements. The results showed:
- the material stimulated well-being and reward areas in the brain, aligning with the emerging neurocosmetic trend; and
- these perceived benefits were additionally confirmed through panelist questionnaires.
Skin Tolerance, Texture and Encapsulation Capabilities
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, Pickmulse does not negatively impact the stratum corneum, assuring high skin tolerance. When emulsified with 20% oil, the ingredient can also be used to create varied textures, from sprays to supple creams, under cold conditions.
The quinoa starch additionally has unique swelling properties to encapsulate lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an encapsulation system, Pickmulse is reportedly able to increase the stability of sensitive ingredients. Thus, the ingredient can offer a user-friendly solution for in-house encapsulation, exhibiting a high loading capacity (up to 25%) and efficacy to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.
Responsibly Sourced Natural Ingredient
Pickmulse is derived from quinoa responsibly sourced from fields in Bolivia. The company collaborates with the Pro Inpa Foundation to foster a more resilient local economy. As a responsibly-sourced ingredient, Pickmulse therefore addresses the growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly cosmetic components.
“Pickmulse offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics that we’ve designed to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” said Isabelle Lacasse, head of global marketing, product line management and formulation for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant. “This next-generation of 2-in-1 product[s] is a balance of formulation needs, as well as skin health and feel.”
