It’s always interesting to consider how market trends translate into product formulas. In July, we looked at how the demand for responsible beauty has spurred ocean-sourced, fermented, planet positive, etc., innovations. In June, we considered how drivers for hair health, minimalism and emotional engagement have shaped hair conditioners. But we have yet to focus on how such trends impact formula basics like preservation, rheology, stability, etc. In view of this, we reached out to industry insiders to get their take. Here, seven experts share their insights.
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It’s always interesting to consider how market trends translate into product formulas. In July, we looked at how the demand for responsible beauty has spurred ocean-sourced, fermented, planet positive, etc., innovations. In June, we considered how drivers for hair health, minimalism and emotional engagement have shaped hair conditioners. But we have yet to focus on how such trends impact formula basics like preservation, rheology, stability, etc. In view of this, we reached out to industry insiders to get their take. Here, seven experts share their insights.
See our related report on 12 trends in beauty.
Trending: Brat Summer and Indie Sleaze
But first, it's worth noting a couple of the latest market trends. Mintel recently highlighted two that diverge from the previous sleek, polished and clean “Barbiecore” status quo look: brat summer and indie sleaze. According to the firm, both brat summer and indie sleaze, “reject the hyper-curated images that dominate much of social media,” celebrating self-expression, imperfections, following your heart and tapping into the spirit of rebellion reminiscent of the early 2000s.
The news source KLTLA noted the brat trend, in particular, has brought Millennials and Gen Z consumers “a much-needed sense of frivolous fun and glamour.” This is not to say that brat summer and indie sleaze enthusiasts don’t embrace the same underlying awareness of self-care/wellness, safety and eco-consciousness as other consumers. Authenticity and following your heart, which drive many of these values, are still at the core of the trending mindsets.
For example, to connect with consumers tied into the brat summer trend, Mintel offers five tips.
Tips to Tap into ‘Brat Summer’ Enthusiasts
- Celebrate imperfections, showing real people and their flaws rather than polished images;
- Incorporate DIY culture to foster creativity and empower consumers;
- Engage authentically, using social media to connect with consumers and build community;
- Prioritize collaborations, partnering with artists and influencers who embody a free spirit; and
- “Bring back the fun,” delving into what’s bright, whimsical and even hedonistic.
Impact of Trends on Formula Basics
As stated, it's interesting to see how market trends impact product concepts. Considering the above-described fun and hedonistic traits of “brat summer,” one might envision novel textures and sensory experiences – still grounded in the authenticity of traceable, sustainable and eco-responsible formulas.
However, how do market trends impact basics such as preservation, rheology, stability, etc.? And what current trends are industry insiders seeing? We reached out to several experts to get their take; here’s what they said.
1. Natural, Cost Efficient and Sensorial
According to Prateek Mahalwar, co-founder and CEO of Bioweg, naturality is the name of the game. “There is an ever-increasing demand from consumers for natural and sustainable multifunctional rheology modifiers that enhance the stability and sensory properties of formulations,” Mahalwar writes. “The additional pressure from regulatory bodies in enforcing bans or restricted usage volumes of certain synthetic polymers creates a demand for natural and biodegradable alternatives without compromising on the superior performance of these ingredients in varied conditions.”
Per Mahalwar, these factors collectively push the industry toward more complex and often costlier reformulation strategies and necessitate continuous innovation. Relating to this, in terms of future directions, Mahalwar sees cost efficiency will remain a significant challenge, pushing the industry toward innovative solutions that balance cost and performance.
“Customization and personalization trends in beauty and skin care products will further drive the need for rheology modifiers that can be tailored to specific textures and sensory properties desired by different consumer segments,” Mahalwar continues. “Overall, the direction will be toward creating simpler, cost-effective, and high-quality formulations that comply with regulatory requirements and meet consumer expectations for natural and sustainable products.”
To support these dynamics, Mahalwar reports Bioweg is addressing the key problems associated with the current state-of-art in rheology modifiers. “Using the power of biotechnology, green chemistry and circular economy principles, we have developed a sustainable bio-based alternative to traditional synthetic rheology modifiers like polyacrylates.”
More specifically, Mahalwar points to the Rheoweg100 Bacterial Cellulose Based Rheology Modifier (INCI: Cellulose), said to provide superior functionality in diverse personal care and home care formulations, encouraging a more conscientious and holistic approach to end-product development.
2. Upcycled, Emotional and Sustainable
Alessandro Izzo, manager of sales technical service for CP Kelco, highlights sensory properties as key. “One of today’s hottest trends revolves around improved skin feel and texture as a way to indulge the senses and ‘hint at’ beauty benefits,” Izzo writes. “Texture can also evoke emotions. Gels and jellies are playful and fun. The new ‘cloud’ foam texture is dreamy, soft and hydrating for consumers who find thick creams to be too heavy.
“It can also be a factor for judging quality,” Izzo continues. “For instance, a smooth and silky texture might be viewed as nourishing and easy to apply. Rheology and stability are, of course, key in delivering great texture that can differentiate and elevate brands.”
Looking ahead, Izzo believes sensory and sustainability will marry up. “Combine transformative texture with sustainability and there is great potential for successful storytelling that resonates with global consumers. Now a brand can offer a novel solution in an efficient format that promotes upcycling or preserves water resources. The result is luxurious self-care that makes consumers feel good about themselves, their brand choice and their minimal impact on the planet.”
To support future directions, Izzo describes Kelcosens Citrus Fiber (INCI: Citrus Peel Fiber), which reportedly was the first citrus fiber on the market to be certified as upcycled. It is an alternative to synthetic and natural emulsifiers for tunable texture. Also, Genu Carrageenan (INCI: Carrageenan/Chondrus Crispus Powder), extracted from red seaweed and supplied by Zanea Seaweed Co., offers efficient water-binding, gelling, stabilizing and thickening capabilities to replace synthetic ingredients.
3. Simpler, AI-enabled and Powered by Ultrafine Bubbles
Bob Jacobs, president of Hydrosome Labs, sees consumer demand for clean beauty as a driver for formulations with fewer, simpler ingredients. “This is driven by a desire to have fewer chemicals in contact with our skin, and an increasing number of people with sensitivity to the chemicals being added in today’s formulations,” he explains. “Unfortunately, the list of pure and natural ingredients that deliver superior preservation, stability and efficacy is quite short.”
Jacobs continues, “We believe these trends will continue as technology catches up and better meets the desire of consumers. The use of AI in the identification of natural compounds and in the evaluation of skin types will allow for improved degrees of freedom and personalization in formulations.”
Per Jacobs, one promising technology that will enable improvements in preservation, stability and efficacy across the entire spectrum of clean beauty is the use of ultrafine bubbles. “The technology was first discovered in Japan about 20 years ago,” he writes. “Its use in beauty care is relatively new, but it holds tremendous promise for increasing efficacy, preservation and active ingredient stability.”
Jacobs highlights Hydrosome H2O (Aqua) as the leading brand focused on the beauty care category. “Their technology works by infusing the existing DI water used in formulations with ultrafine bubbles in the range of 50-100 nm. Those bubbles consolidate active ingredients on their surface and deliver them deeper and more effectively to skin cells. They have also shown the ability to improve preservation and ingredient stability, while lasting over two years in formulations.”
4. Functional, Vegetable Based and Energy Efficient
“On-trend consumers and brands are looking for unique sensory experiences in color cosmetic items,” writes Ine Matthé, product manager at Oleon Health and Beauty. “This could mean a product that is soft and cushioning to the touch, or that brings a beautiful gloss to the face and lips.”
Matthé adds that when looking at new product development, brands must focus on ingredients that offer functional benefits in addition to a great consumer experience. Matthé highlights Oleon Health & Beauty’s ability to provide both, especially when it comes to the challenges of color cosmetics, e.g., color matching, payoff, stability and shelf life. “Our comprehensive range of Jolee and Radia products are sustainable ingredients to uplift the quality of formulations.”
Looking forward, Matthé also sees continued demand for natural products. “Consumers and brands are unequivocal in their desire for products that offer a natural, sustainable, transparent positioning, with reduced energy usage.” As such, Oleon Health & Beauty has taken the next step toward an energy-efficient future with its new ACT range of products. “[These are] produced through enzymatic esterification, with a meaningful impact on lowering our carbon footprint,” Matthé explains.
Matthé points to Radiastar 1436 (INCI: Isocetyl Isoarachidol), which is the company’s 100% vegetable-based, film-forming emollient, that answers functional requirements for stability and sustainability. “This new era product and unique Guerbet alcohol is liquid at low temperature. It is ideal for cold processing, resulting in reduced energy use in production. In trials, Radiastar 1436 featured excellent color intensity with a high erythema value, while its high refractive index brings a nice gloss to products.”
Furthermore, the product is said to offer good chemical stability, a unique sensory profile and dispersant and film-forming properties.
5. Social Influence and Safer, Biodegradable Alternatives
Aaron Peterson, director of sales on the west coast for P2 Science, underscores how personal care products are continually scrutinized by NGOs and social media influencers. “Concern for human health and the risk of harmful chemicals in personal care products are reasons for this heightened attention,” Peterson writes. “Because of this attention, we see formulators looking for alternatives to many common chemistries. Brands increasingly want to meet not only consumer safety demands, but also environmental safety requirements and as a result, biodegradability claims are on the rise.”
Peterson adds that consumer perception can change quickly due to viral social media content. “In the case of preservation, we’ve already seen a lot of heated debate over the safety of formerly common products that were considered safe. Formulators then are left with fewer options to safely and effectively make products that meet current consumer expectations. Raw material suppliers must continually innovate to create ingredients that are safe, effective and sustainable.”
According to Peterson, P2’s green chemistry platforms enable the conversion of renewable, plant-based raw materials into multifunctional, first-of-their-kind polymeric emollients that can replace unsustainable cosmetic ingredients. “We see the trend toward reducing the environmental impact of beauty and personal care products to impact all categories of ingredients,” Peterson explains. “Ingredient suppliers have to be bold to invest in new process innovation as well as ingredient innovation.”
6. Non-toxic, Renewable and Multifunctional
According to Pascal Yvon, general manager for the Americas at Sharon Personal Care USA, consumers are moving toward sustainable consumption, which affects the choices of formulations and ingredients. “The panorama of sunscreens, texturizers, preservatives and film formers is in a constant state of evolution due to the increasing attention paid to the eco-toxicity of cosmetic ingredients – particularly regarding microplastics and their impact on the marine environment,” he writes.
“This includes volatile silicones, which have come under increasing scrutiny in recent regulatory updates.” In the hair care and makeup segments, however, he notes that sensory impact plays a greater role in consumer satisfaction. “Another consumer expectation is multifunctionality, which impacts formulating basics, involving all ingredients from preservation to functionals to actives,” he adds.
With the goal of improved biodegradability, Yvon believes the market will favor surfactants derived from renewable resources. In addition to the level of sustainability of cosmetics, he sees science-based and clinically proven efficacy as becoming increasingly important.
Looking forward, Yvon projects the formulator will favor multifunctional ingredients with key formulation and skin health benefits. “Emulsifiers that act as delivery systems, actives that protect the skin, but also formulations with antibacterial and antioxidant properties of oils that can replace silicones could be the winning ingredients of tomorrow.”
He gives the example of Sharon Personal Care’s Hydresia (INCI: Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes (and) Water (Aqua)) multifunctional ingredient. “It emulsifies, delivers actives and strengthens the skin barrier through oleosome technology.”
In addition, Sharon’s Aquavita (INCI: Niacinamide (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Decylene Glycol) ingredient is reportedly the first vitamin-based preservative platform that can protect the formulation while offering benefits to skin health.
7. Green, Cutting Edge and Responsibly Sourced
Finally, Tim Pulleyn, marketing manager for Stephenson, observes, “Products that exemplify natural, yet cutting-edge green chemistry in the beauty and personal care industry are fast becoming the hottest trends for beauty brands. We will continue to see demand for raw materials and ingredients that are responsibly and transparently sourced, free of GMOs, ethoxylates and preservatives.” Pulleyn notes that these products must be functional across various applications, offering great stability.
“In terms of solubilizers, we are seeing demand for products that offer an alternative to synthetic products in liquid soaps, shower gels, shampoos and micellar water,” he adds, underscoring that “as demand for natural and sustainable ingredients gathers pace, sensory and aesthetic effectiveness must match consumer requirements for efficacy, functionality and a great consumer experience.”
When used in solubilizers and emulsifiers, naturally derived polyglyceryl esters can provide a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients, per Pulleyn. “Solubilizers allow the stable incorporation of fragrances and oils (common synthetic ingredients) for a skin-friendly experience, offering a mild yet effective solution for both oil-in-water and water-in-oil products with great spreadability and product feel. Their non-ionic characteristics make them compatible with a broad range of cosmetic oils, active ingredients, solubilizers, and co-emulsifiers.”
Pulleyn describes Stephenson’s Durosoft PG10CY-MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate), which is said to rival traditional solubilizers for seamless integration. “It improves performance, offers robust cleansing, and a rich lather,” he explains, adding it is “ideal for luxurious natural cleansers, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.” He notes that Durosoft ingredients provide the widest HLB range of 4-17, for a greater stability profile. The products are also reportedly 100% natural, approved by COSMOS and NATRUE, and RSPO certified.
Conclusion
All in all, it seems that market trends have the same impact on formula "workhorse" ingredients as they do on star ingredients. But as a few experts noted here, there are fewer options to support those trends. Feels like a ripe opportunity for innovation.
