A recent Business Korea headline proclaims: "Korean Cosmetics Surpass France in U.S. Market Share for the First Time." The source cited data from the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC), reported on June 27, 2024, showing Korea captured 20.1% of the U.S. import cosmetics market share between January and April; France was a close second, at 19.3%. This underscores the popularity of K-beauty and related innovations coming from Korea, which were front and center during in-cosmetics Korea, held July 24-26, 2024, in Seoul. Following, we showcase 10 picks from the show's Innovation Zone.
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A recent Business Korea headline proclaims: "Korean Cosmetics Surpass France in U.S. Market Share for the First Time." The source cited data from the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC), reported on June 27, 2024, showing Korea captured 20.1% of the U.S. import cosmetics market share between January and April; France was a close second, at 19.3%. This underscores the popularity of K-beauty and related innovations coming from Korea, which were front and center during in-cosmetics Korea, held July 24-26, 2024, in Seoul. Following, we showcase 10 picks from the show's Innovation Zone.
See related: 8 Ingredients You'll Find This November at in-cosmetics Asia 2024
1. UV Boost: ZeoSAES UV Booster from SAES Chemicals
The 5X6015 ZeoSAES UV Booster (INCI: Zeolite) from SAES Chemicals is said to be the first inorganic UV booster derived from engineered zeolites. The product reportedly provides an excellent UV-boosting effect — up to 40% higher SPF and 38% higher UVA-PF — scattering UVA and UVB rays, while also reducing the levels of organic UV filters required in formulations. The product additionally provides a sensorial application thanks to its texturizing properties. The 5X6015 ZeoSAES UV Booster is provided as a fine, non-nano powder
2. Alternative Preservative: Activonol Green-Hinocare by Activon Co., Ltd.
Activon Co., Ltd., highlights Activonol Green-Hinocare (INCI: Not Provided), a 100% plant-derived alternative preservative sourced from Hinoki cypress. The 100% bio-based material is manufactured through an environmentally friendly process and reportedly can partially or completely replace petroleum-based preservative systems. Per the company, the water-soluble ingredient offers a wide range of antimicrobial protection at low concentrations (1.0-1.5%) and can reduce the amount of other preservatives required in formulations.
Additional benefits include:
- Anti-inflammatory effects;
- Skin brightening effects;
- No effect on pH or viscosity of formulations; and
- Compatible with a broad pH range.
3. Natural Film Former: Belikle by Hyundai Bioland
Hyundai Bioland's Belikle ingredient (INCI: Not Provided) is a 100% natural film former manufactured from the resin of Boswellia, which is widely known as a functional health food. According to the company, Belikle coats the hair to protect it against damage, including UV, while repairing hair and improving its tensile strength. It also demonstrates nail protection effects and increases the coating power of nail polish.
4. Anti-stress Active: BLISS Oléoactif from Hallstar (Distributed by Hanacare Co., Ltd.)
Hallstar's BLISS Oléoactif (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Tilia Cordata Wood Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate), distributed by Hanacare Co., Ltd., is said to inhibit the Monoamine Oxidase A (MAO-A) enzyme, boosting serotonin production and thus constraining the impact of stress. This, in turn, can reduce skin wrinkles, dullness, redness and more. The product is developed using the patented Oléo-éco-extraction process (100% recycled waste).
5. Upcycled Moisture Lock: Citron Barrier Ceramide from Daebong LS Co., Ltd.
Citron Barrier Ceramide (INCI: Citrus Seedamidopropyl Oleate (and) Oleic Acid), from Daebong LS Co., Ltd., is described as an upcycled phyto-pseudo-ceramide that reduces TEWL, locking moisture into skin. The product is based on the company's Korean citron oil DP, manufactured using citron seeds from an area in Korea known for citron's abundance. These seeds typically are discarded but the company upcycles them for this ingredient.
6. Anti-cellulite Active: DCA-WAT from Cellicon Lab
DCA-WAT (INCI: Not Provided) is promoted as an "extraordinary slimming agent," specifically developed for topical anti-cellulite/fat-reduction products with high efficacy and low side effects. Per Cellicon Lab, the peptide is highly targeted to fat cells, or white adipocytes (i.e., White Adipocyte Targeting or WAT), and its adipocytolytic activity reduces side effects such as tissue necrosis or other skin issues caused by the strong activity of DCA.
7. Phytoplankton Holobiont Actives for Eye Contouring: OpenSee Phycoskin by MC Actives GmbH
OpenSee Phycoskin (INCI: Not Provided) is a natural alternative to vitamin K1 oxide that is said to provide 360-degree eye contouring without side effects; i.e., lifting eyelids, smoothing crow’s feet, reducing under-eye bags (puffiness) and lightening dark circles. According to MC Actives GmbH, the ingredient is derived from a nanoplankton with "the incredible ability to adapt to the open sea."
Its holobiont is said to produce bioactive molecules to resist the harsh effects of UV radiation. As such, the company has applied the blue biotech Phycosphere Biodynamic to mimic the nutrient-poor water conditions of the open sea in the lab, thereby obtaining the bioactive molecules from this entity to create OpenSee Phycoskin.
The resulting marine-origin natural active (COSMOS) is vegan, upcycled and produced by blue biotech, and is reportedly the first biotechnology that produces phytoplankton holobionts. Per MC Actives, two clinical studies have demonstrated that after 28 days of use the product provides:
- A lifting effect (+7.9%) on drooping eyelids;
- Smoothing of crow's feet wrinkles (reduced by 35% in length and 44% in depth); and
- A reduction in under-eye bags (reduced by 11%).
8. Layered Actives Delivery: Retinal Bicelles Shot Crystal Bead from H&A Pharmachem
The Retinal Bicelles Shot Crystal Bead (INCI: Not Provided) from H&H Pharmachem is used to encapsulate retinal or other actives in three steps, improving their skin penetration:
- Retinal is encapsulated in bicelles;
- Bicelles are encapsulated in spicules; and
- Retinal-bicelles-spicules are encapsulated in beads.
The bicelles are disc-type lipid vesicles, similar to cellular membranes, that encapsulate actives to improve their stability. The spicules are natural materials that, upon delivery to skin, can aid in cellular reproduction. The final crystal bead is also composed of natural ingredient (details note provided).
9. Rosehip for Hair Health: Sealrose by Provital (Distributed by Chang Hyup Trading Co., Ltd.)
Sealrose (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosa Canina Fruit Extract (and) Tocopherol), from Provital, distributed by Chang Hyup Trading Co., is a hair care active that reportedly repairs and enhances the appearance of healthy hair. The natural solution combines the nature and beauty of a well-known superfood, rosehip, to recover the lipid layer of hair and enhance the perception of softness and ease of combing by restoring the hydrophobicity and porosity to the cuticle.
10. Moisture, Foam and Sensory Effects: BRB 2844 and Emfinity CGSA 200 B from BRB Singapore
Finally, BRB Singapore presents two ingredients; one for moisturizing benefits and foam quality, and another for sensorial effects.
- BRB 2844 is an alkyl silicone ethylene glycol copolymer wax with a low melting point that is soluble in aqueous systems. It provides moisturization benefits to the skin through humectancy properties, and it can improve foam quality and volume in cleanser formulations.
- Emfinity CGSA 200 B is a plant-based ester packed with formulation benefits and functional attributes that provides a cushiony skin sensory experience.
Stay tuned as we follow additional launches from the show.
