Asia is a hotbed of innovation for beauty. Data Bridge Market Research projected the Asia-Pacific personal care ingredients market to reach US $6.484 million by 2030. Per the source, the "increasing demand for self-care products to combat stress and anxiety," plus the tendency of consumers to increase self-care routines to feel good and look better are key drivers.
See related: 9 Top Trends + 30 Beauty Insights from in-cosmetics Global 2024
Three areas of opportunity include established conditioning biopolymers and bioactives; growth potential for emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers and rheology modifiers; and "hot bets" in vitamins and UV filters. Many such innovations will be featured at in-cosmetics Asia, to be held Nov. 5-7, 2024, in Bangkok.
Subscribe now to Cosmetics & Toiletries to follow our ongoing updates. You'll be "wheels up" for Bangkok before you know it, though, so in the meantime, here's a sneak peek at 8 ingredients you'll find at in-cosmetics Asia.
1. Anti-dehydration Shield: Aquaxyl by Seppic
Aquaxyl (INCI: Xylitylglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Xylitol) is designed to optimize skin's hydrous flow. Its mechanism of action, identified by cosmetogenomics, controls water circulation and reserves. Through an "anti-dehydration shield” action, the ingredient is said to reinforce the synthesis of essential lipids and proteins involved in the organization of the corneus layer.
2. Mushroom Antioxidant: L-Ergothioneine (EGT) by
Hangzhou Rebtech Novel Material Co.
EGT from bolete and oyster mushroom is reportedly a uniquely powerful and versatile antioxidant. The colorless, odorless material has a molecular weight of 229.3 and it is relatively highly soluble in aqueous solutions (water solubility limit of 0.9 M at 25°C). EGT is a potentially beneficial compound to protect against UV-induced skin aging.
3. Dermal Remodeling Peptide: Cosroma AT-9 by Shanghai Cosroma Biotech Co.
Cosroma AT-9 is pure acetyl tetrapeptide-9. Per the company, it acts on collagen I to stimulate the synthesis of human basement membrane glycans and promote dermal remodeling. This results in firming and plumping of the skin and effectively increases the skin's moisture content. The ingredient is specifically targeted at strengthening the linkages between the collagen fibers in the basement membrane glycans and improving their function.
4. Upcycled Perilla Seed Skin Soother: Alleviar by
Ingredi Biotech Co.
Alleviar (INCI: Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin) is upcycled as a by-product from perilla seed oil production. According to the company, perilla is a Chinese medicinal and edible plant whose seeds, in addition to unsaturated fatty acids, are rich in phenolic acids such as rosmarinic that can effectively inhibit inflammatory factors. Indeed, suitable for oily sensitive skin, the product demonstrates soothing, anti-inflammatory action through the inhibition of IL-6 and 5α reductase. It also acts as an antioxidant.
5. Acti-Hair Element Complex: Laboratorios Argenol S.L.
Acti-Hair Complex (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Citric Acid (and) Silver Citrate (and) Zinc Citrate (and) Copper Citrate (and) Magnesium Citrate (and) Manganese Citrate) is a novel blend especially indicated for dry, weak, dull, split and brittle hair that, per the company, often suffers when drying. The elements are combined to improve hair strength, reduce hair loss and control sebum. Zinc and manganese, in particular, are reported to improve hair shine.
6. Skin Brightening Autophagy Activator: Amitose HGA by Seiwa Kasei Co.
Amitose HGA (INCI: Hexyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (and) Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) is a specially developed stable vitamin C derivative produced by binding glycerin to vitamin C and an alkyl group. This product demonstrates skin brightening by inhibiting melanin synthesis, reportedly more effectively than other ingredients. It also inhibits melanin transport and degrades melanin via autophagy to suppress dark spots.
See also: 5 Top Trends at PCHi 2024: Skin Strength, Radiance, Microbiome, Collagen and More
7. Cellular Skin 'Fitness' Lift: Baolift by Vytrus Biotech SA
Baolift (INCI: Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Phytic Acid (and) Water (Aqua)), derived from baobab stem cells, is designed to protect and reinforce skin through a new approach: by simulating the effects of a fitness regimen at a cellular level. By activating the molecular mechanisms of exercise in the skin, the ingredient improves muscle tone for a lifted, rejuvenated appearance and reduced under-eye bags.
8. Plant Polyphenol Eye Contour Care: Biomira 112 by Normactive
Biomira 112 (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) is a hydrosoluble plant complex composed of polyphenols, proanthocyanidins, saponins and hydrolyzed proteins, designed to reduce dark circles and alleviate puffiness while decreasing the appearance of wrinkles.
Per the company, the rich antioxidant content protects against free radical damage that can accelerate skin aging and provides anti-inflammatory effects. The ingredient is said to dramatically improve severe signs of intrincis aging around the eyes in mature skin, and provide total eye contour care by addressing wrinkles, puffiness, dark circles. It is reportedly effective due to its anti-edema, free radical scavenging, circulation stimulation and visible tightening properties.
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