The sustainability theme from pre-congress workshops rolled over into Day 1 of the main IFSCC Congress, held Oct. 14-17, 2024, in Foz do Iguacu, Brazil. The opening keynote, presented by Gustavo Dieamant, of Grupo Boticário, focused on strategic innovation incorporating sustainability, as well as diversity and inclusion, as a tool for R&D.
Additional keynotes, also sustainability-driven, included Heather Benson, Ph.D., of Curtin University, who examined sustainable cosmetic development from concept to consumer. And Cara Eaton, of Croda, on lifecycle assessment and technologies designed to deliver sustainable solutions.
Throughout the day's sessions, talks ranged from:
- lasting plumping and hydrating effects;
- improving hyaluronic acid efficacy;
- reducing sunscreen penetration; and
- leveraging microbiome-based skin classifications for personalized treatments;
- to "inter-omics" to assess niacinamide effects in pre- and post-menopausal skin;
- eumelanin precursor hair coloring;
- and more.
Following are select highlights.
Skin Insights: Lasting Hydration and Plumping, Barrier Defects and Leaky Skin, Brazilian Phototypes, Retinol Encapsulation, Multi-targeted Acne Control ...
Mitsuru Shimatani, of L'Oreal, described a natural solution for long-lasting skin hydration and plumping using a core-shell ion complex. The present work sought to enhance the efficacy of hyaluronic acid (HA) by incorporating it into a novel polyion complex to improve its affinity with the skin. The HA core-shell ion complex includes HA, epsilonpolylysine and phytic acid, along with polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. The formulation was found to create a long-lasting and highly adhesive film with good moisture retention and plumping effects.
Lauriane Imbert-Roux, of Greentech, presented on skin barrier defects and inflammation related to "leaky skin" and its prevention using natural active compounds. Various sources report that leaky gut is a hypothetical condition wherein the intestines become permeable to toxins that leak into the bloodstream and trigger systemic issues. Leaky skin is likened to such: if the barrier is less efficient, external harmful compounds can cross over the epithelial barrier and trigger an immune response, leading to ichthyosis, acne, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. To screen for natural solutions to prevent such harmful effects, an ex vivo model that mimics the harmful effects of S. aureus proteases was developed.
Professor Patricia Maia Campos, of the University of São Paulo, decoded skin oiliness and morphological characteristics in different skin phototypes in Brazil through an inclusive clinical study. In addition, El Baraka Oussama, of BASF, took a deep dive in skin structures based on a high resolution clearing histological method. Adeline Delaporte, of URCOM (Université Le Havre Normandie), highlighted novel natural polymer coacervates for retinol encapsulation to advance skin-care formulation design. And Tang Fangyong, of Guangzhou Cenkon, presented plant-derived tetrandrine as a novel agent to target multiple pathogenic factors of acne.
Sunscreen Innovation: Preventing Penetration, Optimizing Efficacy, Eco-design, ZnO Challenges, Aqueous Metal Oxide Dispersion with Water Resistance, Non-nano ZnO ...
Xueping Chen, of Ausmetics, presented a sunscreen formula technology based on a polypeptide modified polysilicon-14 to microencapsulate the UVB absorber octocrylene and UVA absorber methoxydibenzoylmethane. The technology "effectively prevented the skin penetration of UV filters into the epidermis for up to 4 hr," per in vitro and in vivo assays. It also permitted only low penetration into the stratum corneum; showed no penetration into the epidermis for up to 8 hr; and it did not change the SPF and PFA values of the formula or the safety or sensory properties. The materials additionally are biodegradable.
Andressa Peyrot, of BASF, described formulating sunscreens to optimize efficacy, efficiency and environmental health using EcoSun Pass technology. Plus, Lubrizol Life Science's Laura Molina Perez explained overcoming formulation challenges in zinc oxide-based sunscreens containing carbomers or acrylates polymers. Junya Nakano, of Nikko Chemicals, demonstrated the development of an aqueous metal oxide dispersion having water-resistance properties by forming a self-assembled structure and its application for sun care products. And Kyounghee Shin, of Sunjin, explored a transparent mineral sunscreen with non-nano rod-shaped ZnO.
Microbiome Focus: Microbe Distribution and Formulas for Skin Health, Yeast Ferment Anti-aging, Endophyte Anti-pollution and Well Aging, Novel Anti-aging Skin Commensal ...
Hye-Been Kim, of CosMax BTI, South Korea, highlighted skin microbiome-based personalized cosmetics. "This study is the first to develop and confirm personalized cosmetics for skin types by combining skin-derived microbiome cultivation and materialization technologies," the paper abstract reports.
Hye-Been Kim, of CosMax BTI, South Korea, highlighted skin microbiome-based personalized cosmetics. The company's research had previously identified the relationship between the microbiome and skin conditions. In the present work, researchers implemented surveys, clinical assessments (for age, water loss, oil, pores, skin tone, elasticity and nasolabial folds), sampling and AI analysis to identify microbiome-based skin classifications, make clinical assessments and create personalized formulas based on prebiotics to balance the microbiome in favor of the desired skin outcome; such as improved elasticity, reduced TEWL, pore reduction, moisture content, etc.
"This study is the first to develop and confirm personalized cosmetics for skin types by combining skin-derived microbiome cultivation and materialization technologies," the authors wrote, in the presentation abstract. The results suggest that the distribution state of the microbiome is linked to the maintenance of skin health.
Yang Fa, of Mageline, explained how, through comprehensive wet and dry experiments, a yeast fermentation extract imparts anti-aging effects by influencing the skin microbiome. Also, Silvia Benito Martinez, of Provital, presented an extract from the endophyte Kwoniella mangroviensis for anti-pollution and well-aging properties that acts via the microbiome and improves the lipidomic profile in skin. Wenjia Yu, of Pechoin, highlighted the development of an anti-aging formula based in nanotechnology that is capable of balancing the cutaneous microbiome. Valerie Cenizo, of L`Occitane, presented Corynebacterium cassirii, a new discovered skin commensal with anti-aging properties. And Yijie Liu, from Bloomage, explained how a fermented brown rice filtrate from Saccharomyces cerevisiae applied to the skin or scalp affects the diversity of the oily skin or scalp microbiota.
Skin Aging: Mixed Retinol for Reduced Irritation, Niacinamide in Pre-/Post-menopausal Skin, Porphyr'aging, 3D Full Thickness Substrate, Melanoaging
Sophia Yi Zhang of Yatsen Global/Galenic Skin Care presented on the potency of mixed retinol for enhanced effects and reduced irritation.
Sophia Yi Zhang of Yatsen Global/Galenic Skin Care presented on the potency of mixed retinol for enhanced effects and reduced irritation. Three forms of retinol were assessed: encapsulated, mixed and non-encapsulated. All three forms up-regulated type I collagen content and downregulated MMP-1 and MMP-3 levels, especially the mixed retinol, and the effects were further confirmed by an ex vivo UV radiation study.
The mixed retinol promoted cell migration and altered mitochondrial function. Raman spectroscopy showed mixed retinol's good skin penetration, with better penetration into the dermis layer. The mixed retinol also inhibited aging-related bacteria growth, decreased IL-8 levels, improved the skin tissue, imparted better anti-photoaging effects than the other two forms, and promoted wound healing. The researchers suggest these findings highlight that mixed retinol offers anti-aging and skin-penetration effects with lower irritation and could be considered for clinical applications and incorporation into anti-aging products.
Dominik Imfeld, of DSM-Firmenich, presented an interomic (metabolomic, lipidomic and microbiome) analysis of pre- and post-menopausal facial skin and the effects of niacinamide (NA) treatment. Pre-menopausal (PreM) and post-menpausal (PoM) skin had similar hydration and TEWL before and after placebo treatment but after four weeks of NA treatment, PoM volunteers showed a 19% reduction in TEWL (p < 0.001) and increase in hydration (23%, p < 0.001). Metabolomic analysis confirmed absorption of NA.
Per the authors, the most prominent decline was detected for cytosine in PoM vs PreM skin, but recovered by NA. Furthermore, the NA treatment appeared to minimize UV-induced DNA damage and contributed to skin homeostasis, boosting ceramide classes at various degrees. The NA treatment was also well-tolerated by the skin microflora.
Amandine Scandolera, of Givaudan, featured a talk on porphyr'aging as a new phenomenon related to skin aging. According to the paper abstract, skin microbiota produce metabolites that positively or negatively affect skin. Among these, porphyrins are secreted at high levels by Cutibacterium acnes and other skin bacteria. Studies revealed correlations between porphyrins, brown spots and wrinkles, and showed that reducing porphyrin levels in skin could delay signs of aging.
Laure Crabbe Vert, of LVMH Recherche, presented an immunocompetent and microvascularized 3D human full-thickness skin equivalent model for the evaluation of cosmetics active ingredients targeting skin aging. Finally, Daigo Inoue, of Shiseido, featured a talk on "melanoaging" and resolving age-spot specific metabolic changes and cellular senescence caused by excessive melanin deposition.
Hair Highlights: Eumelanin Precursor Coloring, Fiber Structure Analysis, Plant Oil Treatments, Graying
Yuji Mochizuki, of Rohto Pharmaceutical, described a novel hair coloring system using the eumelanin precursor DHI (5,6-dihydroxyindole). Per Mochizuki, hair coloring agents using oxidative dyes offer efficacy and a wide color range but can cause issues such as hair damage and allergic reactions due to hydrogen peroxide and alkaline agents. Here, the researchers found that after hydrophilic DHI was polymerized by auto-oxidation in close proximity to hair, it penetrated the hair and became hydrophobic eumelanin, which remained inside the hair. The researchers also improved the dyeability of gray hairs with DHI by controlling the charge on the hair surface and they aim to increase color variation by mixing with other dyes.
Guojin Zhang, of Croda, took a deep dive into the hair fiber using ultrastructural analysis by PeakForce Quantitative NanoMechanics (QNM) mapping. Jennifer Marsh, of P&G, described a method to determine plant oil compositions for delivering optimum hair benefits. And Alba Cico of CICO/Sederma/Croda addressed hair greying via the stimulation of hair pigmentation.
Carnival Celebration Dinner
Closing out a day of serious cosmetic science, Provital sponsored the Sunset Carnival Celebration Dinner, located at the Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay three borders meeting point. Attendees networked and experienced the vibrant dances, foods and libations of each culture, captivated by the energy of the Brazilian Carnival.
The Sunset Carnival Celebration Dinner, sponsored by Provital, was held at the Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay three borders meeting point. Attendees experienced the vibrant dances, foods and libations of each culture, captivated by the energy of the Brazilian Carnival.
The Sunset Carnival Celebration Dinner, sponsored by Provital, was held at the Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay three borders meeting point. Attendees experienced the vibrant dances, foods and libations of each culture, captivated by the energy of the Brazilian Carnival.
