Recent lip care launches are blurring the lines between gloss, color and care. Hybridized formats include gloss/oil mashups, gel-glosses, jellies, balms-meet-lipstick, etc. Here, we review eight examples and take a deep dive with Saie and goop Beauty to uncover the "hows" and "whys" of these product forms.
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Recent lip care launches are blurring the lines between gloss, color and care. Hybridized formats include gloss/oil mashups, gel-glosses, jellies, balms-meet-lipstick, etc. Here, we review eight examples and take a deep dive with Saie and goop Beauty to uncover the "hows" and "whys" of these product forms.
See related Formulating On Trend articles featuring lip gloss and lip oil.
Lip Care Category Climbs
To set the stage, the lip care category in general, including balms, butters, scrubs and masks, is projected to grow from US $2.397 billion in 2023 to $3.107 billion by 2032 (3.5% CAGR from 2023-2032), per Credence Research. Such products are designed to deliver health benefits, hydration and aesthetics to a consumer base driven by a focus on wellness and influenced by social media. Per the firm, innovative formulas are feeding this growth by providing additional treatments for concerns such as chapping, dryness, sun damage and signs of aging.
Fact.MR estimates the global lip care market will expand at a slightly higher CAGR of 4.6% from 2023-2033. Per the firm, lip balms will bring in the most revenue but companies should also extend offerings into glosses, scrubs, tints and primers, and experiment with ingredients (especially natural and sustainable) to take advantage of growing online sales.
Lip Health and Youth Outpace the Average
Interestingly, tube lip balms alone — including traditional, flavored, medicated and tinted — are outpacing broader larger lip segment projections. Focused on health and adverse environmental effects, such as UV and pollution, these lip products are expected to expand at a CAGR of 5.5% between 2024-2032 to reach $4.244 billion, Credence Research Reports.
The same firm projects the anti-aging lip balm market, in particular, will explode at a 9.95% CAGR from 2024-2032. MarketResearch.biz places the lip balm market, especially solid cream balms and liquid gels for dry, sensitive skin and more, at $3.8 billion in 2023, with an anticipated CAGR of 6.6% from 2024-2033 to reach $7.1 billion.
Lip glosses, intended to give lips a youthful, plumped appearance and frosted, metallic and/or glittery luster, are also edging ahead of the larger lip care segment, with a CAGR of 5.2% expected from 2024-2030, Stellar Market Research projects. Similarly, Market Research Future projects lip glosses will climb at a CAGR of 5.02% from 2023-2032.
Gloss Hybrids to Boost the Barrier
Lip care innovators are taking the best of these benefits and hybridizing them to augment users' lip care experiences.
1. Saie's gloss/oil/balm Glossybounce Shimmers
Saie
Saie, for example debuted its Glossybounce Shimmers in three new shades of ultra-hydrating "gloss-oil hybrids" on Sept. 5, 2024. The products were inspired by the company's customers and community. "At Saie, we have a ‘You Say It, We Create It’ philosophy, where we work very intimately with our loyal customer base to hear their feedback on what they want to see from us," writes Saie Founder and CEO Laney Crowell. "We always want to meet our community where they are, and we knew a lip product like this was highly sought..."
The new Glossybounce Shimmer shades include Disco (a pinky rose shimmer), Shake (a warm nude shimmer) and Remix (a mauve shimmer), all touted for their sophisticated effortless application and elegance. The shimmery glosses expand on the company's original six sheer Glossybounce shades.
"...[W]hen we set out to develop [the original] Glossybounce, we wanted to create a clean lip gloss oil that was the perfect mix between a lip gloss, a lip oil and a balm since we felt like the market was missing that," Crowell continues. "It was so important that we captured all of the wonderful benefits of each: cushion, comfort, hydration, high-shine, slip, wear and sheer color. Yet, we wanted to ensure that the formula was not sticky or tacky on the lips.
"We tested so many versions (it took us nearly three years to develop) until we landed on the most perfect product that gives you glossy, juicy and bouncy lips with a gorgeous sheer tint. [Now], Glossybounce Shimmers [are an] the elevated take on that. Just the right amount of shimmer without any of the stickiness for the most gorgeous, glossy lips."
Crowell adds, "Lip glosses and balms have been gaining in popularity over the years because this is the first time that lip gloss has been actually good for your lips. Which, when you think about it, is quite revolutionary, ... compared to lip glosses of the past. You get it all now, incredible hydration and an easy, effortless look. You can have it all, so it makes sense that customers are really excited about the new innovations in lip care."
Speaking of innovation, the product's "gloss-oil hybrid" format could be considered a market differentiator. Crowell describes it as "the slip of a lip oil and the high-shine of a tinted gloss meets the hydration of a balm." She adds, "Glossybounce hydrates, moisturizes and comforts the lips without the sticky and tacky feel of a traditional gloss and without sacrificing on clean ingredients."
How does it achieve this? "As with every Saie product, there was a long product development process with Glossybounce to ensure that luxury, quality and clean ingredients weren't compromised," explains Crowell. "When developing our formulas, we always incorporate the Saie Science and the Saie Fatty Acid Complex (SFAC)." Per Crowell, this complex includes polyglycerides (oleic/linoleic/linolenic) to moisturize and hydrate the lips. Additional key ingredients for shimmer, shine, nourishment and hydration effects include, per Crowell:
- the SFAC complex;
- jojoba oil as a fatty acid to hydrate and help nourish dry, chapped lips;
- hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and hydrate lips; and
- shea butter to soften, smooth and condition the lips.
The company's website also highlights the inclusion of meadowfoam oil for its vitamin E content, to help hydrate and revitalize dry, cracked lips. "[The] Glossybounce Shimmer shades contain the original Glossybounce formula, just with some added shimmer," Crowell added.
"Also, it was so important to us that we did not formulate with any silicone or petroleum. You might notice that our shade Kiss (clear) has a slight pink tint. That is because when you do not use petroleum, the base of the formula is slightly milky/yellow versus crystal clear. It was important to Saie that we formulated with the cleanest of ingredients."
The products are positioned as long-lasting and vegan, formulated without natural or synthetic fragrance and with a touch of natural stevia for taste. "You may notice the scent of raw ingredients but this fades quickly after application," the company's web site reports.
What future directions might the lip gloss category take? "Lip liner and gloss pairing is something we’re seeing a lot of across social media, and [we] expect to see continued growth here as the 'no makeup-makeup' look remains a trend," Crowell projects. "At Saie, we love the idea of stacking products to work together for a seamless, elegant lip and our recently launched Lip Liner 101 and Glossybounce is the perfect, natural-but-still-elevated look."
2. goop Beauty's 5-in-1 Hydra-Barrier Gel Gloss
goop
Another freshly launched example of hybridization is goop's Beauty Hydra-Barrier Gel Gloss, which rolled out on Sept. 8. The unique five-in-one formula is said to work as a balm, gloss, plumper, mask and oil, leaving lips with "instant and long-lasting moisture in one swipe." Available in six colors, the peptide-infused treatment is designed to enhance the lips’ skin barrier while making the lips "pillow-soft."
"More and more consumers find their skin dry and even sensitized — often from using too many and overly harsh beauty, personal care and even cleaning products," explains Jean Godfrey June, goop’s executive beauty director. "As science has uncovered the importance and power of maintaining the skin’s natural barrier (as well as the skin’s microbiome), consumers are eager to support their bodies’ own natural systems in the pursuit of great skin. The benefits they’re looking for are healthier-looking, healthier-feeling, more comfortable, more moisturized, smoother and softer skin."
According to Godfrey June, there were several reasons for developing the product in a gel gloss format. "Our [product development] team did an incredible job on this one. Our development was focused on problem solving and improving some of the shortcomings of lip oils — they slip all over and often lack cushion on the lips. The gelled texture is novel in that it gives immense cushion, without stickiness, and the satisfaction of its staying put. It feels amazing on skin, and moisturizes deeply as it delivers shine and gorgeous color — that was our goal." Godfrey June adds that while lip gloss has traditionally looked shiny but felt drying on skin, goop wanted its product to feel like, and treat lips like, a moisturizing balm.
Godfrey June also explained the philosophy behind the multifunctional benefits of the product. "Consumers are definitely interested in multiple benefits — I know I am. Who wants four products when you can have one? A clever design of formula is the secret to this one product that does it all."
Akshay Talati, goop’s VP of product development, expanded on what makes this multifunctional formula tick. "After several experimental trials, we created an optimized combination of nourishing natural oils and emollients that impart instant and long-lasting gloss, vegan lanolin that engulfs lips in a moisture-rich balm, active peptides and hyaluronic acid microspheres that plump, and a cushiony gelled oil texture that envelopes lips into a cocooning mask."
He continues, "The lips have a uniquely thin barrier (stratum corneum), so they easily become dehydrated, chapped and dry. We wanted clean, luxurious lip color that could help lips look and feel healthier, instantly and over time. Our plush hydrating gel gloss instantly coats lips in a luxurious layer of barrier-supporting active ingredients (vegan lanolin, rose hip oil, vitamin E, peptides, hyaluronic acid) entrapped in a natural polymeric base that is long-lasting, helping to reduce trans-epidermal water loss to protect and restore, while also replenishing with essential moisture that softens and smooths."
Godfrey June adds, "The skin on our lips is skin, albeit thinner, less oily and more vulnerable to dehydration. So the benefits peptides can deliver to our skin — smoothing, strengthening — are really helpful for our lips. Soft lips, just like soft skin, are eternally desirable. Other [desired characteristics], especially for our customers, are moisturized, healthy, smooth and nourished lips — as well as anything around protecting our skin’s barrier."
Pout-plumping Oils that Hydrate and Smooth
Additional mash-ups in the lip gloss genre include plumping oils with added nourishing, hydrating and smoothing benefits.
3. Rinna Beauty Super Glossy Larger Than Life Lip Plumping Oils
The oils are clinically proven to increase lip volume while improving skin texture and reducing lip lines."
Although not a new launch, Rinna Beauty's "super glossy" Larger Than Life Lip Plumping Oils are designed to deliver a sheer and/or tinted intense gloss and deep nourishment to lips. The products tout a rich, cushiony texture characterized by intense shine, hydration and "the treatment properties of naturally derived oils."
Per the company, the formula includes collagen peptides and nutrient-rich volumizers that work in tandem help to boost collagen and elastin production. The oils are clinically proven to increase lip volume while improving skin texture and reducing lip lines. "Every time you apply the high shine gloss, it is like getting a lip-plumping treatment that triggers lips to rise and shine, revealing voluptuous, smooth lips," the brand's website states.
Featured ingredients, among others, include:
- Jojoba oil, to penetrate skin for softer, smoother lips. It mimics the lipid content of skin and helps to protect and maintain the structure of the skin’s extracellular matrix, additionally preventing moisture loss and cell damage and increasing suppleness.
- Sunflower oil, a natural triglyceride oil with good oxidative stability and excellent emollient properties. Per the company, oleic acid, found in skin surface lipids, is the major fatty acid in sunflower oil and this allows for its easy absorption into skin without a greasy feel.
- Coconut oil, to help smooth lips and lock in existing moisture. Its high levels of omega-6 fatty acid are said to smooth the lips, ease inflammation and reduce the appearance of lip lines.
- Avocado oil, which is extremely high in natural fatty acids, is included for its exceptional moisturizing benefits. It helps to improve collagen synthesis and has healing and soothing properties.
- Finally, a natural plumping peptide is included to impart moisturizing and hydration to the lips. It, too, stimulates collagen as well as hyaluronic acid synthesis, providing firmness, smoothness, better definition, volume and moisture.
Ingredients (Shade: Illusion; disclosure per Amazon listing): Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Cera Carnauba/Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax/Cire de Carnauba, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Menthoxypropanediol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Carbonate, Tribehenin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Citric Acid. May Contain/Peut Contenir (±): CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 15850 (Red 7 Lake).
4. Tarte Maracuja Juicy Plumping Lip Oil
Designed to give 'the hydrating perks of an oil with the high-shine plump of a gloss.'"
Tarte expanded on its Maracuja Juicy Lip line last year (2023) with the roll-out of its Maracuja Juicy Plumping Lip Oil, designed to give "the hydrating perks of an oil with the high-shine plump of a gloss." According to the brand, it layers on just the right amount of product and feels like a cloud on the lips.
"It gives lips a splash of TLC with 90%+ lip-conditioning ingredients that turn dry smiles into hydrated happy dances," the company's website reports. Like the other Maracuja Juicy products, the plumping lip oils feature maracuja passion fruit oil sourced from an all-female co-op in the Amazon.
Additional product benefits touted include:
- Makes lips feel silky smooth and reduces the appearance of lip lines;
- Infuses 15+ oils and 10+ superfruits to nourish for smoother, plumper, juicier-looking lips;
- Offers shimmer or high-shine finishes; and
- Is a vegan and cruelty-free formula.
According to the company, clinical testing in 32 subjects confirmed lip-plumping and hydrating effects.
Ingredients (Shade: Clear; disclosure as of Sept. 24, 2024): Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Prunus Domestica (French Plum) Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethyl Vanillin, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopherol. (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Red 6 (CI 15850), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 7 (CI 15850), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 33 Lake (CI 17200).
Additional Lip Care Cross-overs
Additional examples of new lip care cross-overs include the following.
5. Dr.Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Hydrating Lip Mask
Dr.Jart+
On Sept. 23 online (launching Oct. 4 in stores), Dr.Jart+ extended its fan-favorite Vital Hydra Solution line with a first-ever lip mask powered by hyaluronic acid. Suitable for day or night use, the product is designed to provide "instant plumping and shine-boosting powers."
After one application, the lips are said to look fresh, shiny and healthy. Per the company, the product has been clinically proven to:
- Deliver intense hydration,
- Reduce visible dry lines for smoother lips,
- Visibly plump lips,
- Boost shine and
- Provide non-stop, all-night hydration.
During the day, the product can be used as a moisturizing lip primer before applying lipstick or lip gloss, or used as a lip gloss alone for shiny, plump lips.
Ingredients (disclosure as of Sept. 24, 2024): Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyethylene, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Behenate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Lecithin, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 7 (CI 15850).
6. REFY Blur Liner + Lip Nourisher
According to the brand REFY, blurred lips are on the horizon. As such, the company launched its new Blur Liner, described as "the ultimate tool for achieving a flawlessly blurred, fuller lip look with the ease of a creamy formula and domed applicator." The liner is said to provide an ultra-blurring matte finish, instantly enhancing and reshaping lips for a fuller look.
REFY’s Blur-Gel Technology and is formulated in a cream to 'glide on effortlessly, minimizing the appearance of lip lines while simultaneously offering nourishing care through a complex of moisturizing oils.'"
The product features REFY’s Blur-Gel Technology and is formulated in a cream to "glide on effortlessly, minimizing the appearance of lip lines while simultaneously offering nourishing care through a complex of moisturizing oils."
Ingredients (disclosure as of Sept. 24, 2024): Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Dimethicone, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Silica Silylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. +/- May Contain/Peut Contenir: Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
7. ILIA Beauty Lip Sketch Hydrating Lip Crayon
Ilia
ILIA Beauty's Lip Sketch Hydrating Lip Crayon is designed to deliver the creamy comfort of a lipstick with the precision of a lip liner. Per the company, the weightless formula glides on effortlessly, offering rich, long-lasting color with a soft-matte finish. Launched in May this year, the lip crayon is reportedly infused with potent skin care ingredients and clinically proven to hydrate, plump, smooth and strengthen the skin barrier, ensuring that lips look and feel their best throughout the day.
Additional touted benefits include:
- 12-hour wear,
- Bleed-resistant, precise application without smudging, and
- Smoothing and barrier-building effects to reinforce lips' natural barrier.
Highlighted ingredients include: sea succulent, to boost hydration and help replenish the skin barrier over time; hyaluronic acid to attract moisture, hydrate, smooth and plump lips for a fuller appearance; seaweed extract to improve definition and volume with sustainably sourced nutrients; and rosehip oil, which is rich in fatty acids to nourish and soften lips.
Ingredients (disclosure as of Sept. 24, 2024): Tridecyl Trimellitate, Octyldodecanol, Dicalcium Phosphate, Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisostearyl Malate, Synthetic Beeswax, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Leaf Extract, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Barium Sulfate. May Contain/Peut Contenir (+/-): Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Ci 15850 (Red 7 Lake), Mica, Ci 15850 (Red 6), Ci 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake), Ci 15850 (Red 7), Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides), Ci 15850 (Red 7), Ci 45410 (Red 28 Lake), Ci 42090 (Blue 1 Lake), Ci 45380 (Red 22 Lake), Ci 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake).
8. Bisou Jelly Balm-meets-lipstick
Bisou
Finally, Bisou Jelly is the latest addition to the brand's franchise. Debuting August 15, 2024, the balm-meets-lipstick hybrid features a hydrating jelly outer layer combined with a tinted balm core, delivering an effortless, juicy "just-kissed" look, per the brand. The unique design is said to enhance the illusion of a fuller pout by adding color within the lip line and shine on the outer edges. Users are said to experience moisturized lips with a subtle bouche mordue ("just bitten") effect.
The products are available in four "gourmandise" shades inspired by desserts: the Aïssa berry shade; Bonbon Caramel to impart a rich, caramel brown and give lips a touch of natural warmth and luminosity, Pomme D’amour, a bright candy apple red reminiscent of glossy candied apples; and Bonbon à la Rose, a soft nude pink.
The Bisou Jelly products are designed to impart key benefits including:
- full, juicy-looking lips, to “cheat your own volume." The pigmented core focuses color application on the lips while the outer jelly layer gives shine to the edges. Together, these two layers create the visual effect of fuller-looking lips.
- sheer, buildable color, customizable to build depth and pigment with each additional swipe,
- weightless, cushiony feel that is light on lips,
- And satin-shine hydration, formulated with vitamin E and emollient-rich ingredients to soften lips, lock in moisture, nourish and hydrate for a satin-shine finish.
To achieve a just-bitten lip with natural shine, users are instructed to swipe Bisou Jelly flat onto bare lips, applying the jelly layer just above the natural lip line. Multiple coats can be layered multiple coats for buildable color payoff and smudged to create a blurred effect.
Ingredients (disclosure as of Sept. 24, 2024): Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Polyamide-3, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil/Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Synthetic Wax, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Synthetic Beeswax, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Polybutene, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Ethyl Vanillin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil/Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Candelilla Cera/Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annus Seed Cera/Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Vitex Agnus-Castus Extract, Polyglycerin-3, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera/Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Tocopherol. May Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 6 (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7 (CI 15850).
