Glass,1 donut-glazed and more recently, pearl skin2 concepts have permeated the beauty market as consumers attempt to define their vision for youthful, healthy skin – essentially perfectly smooth, clear and luminous. According to the source Make,2 #pearlskin had more than 40 million views in April 2024, with solutions to achieve a “smooth, translucent and even-toned complexion that resembles the lustrous appearance of a pearl.” The source adds that this trend focuses on “achieving clarity, brightness and a flawless complexion.” (Several industry experts agree and describe how, in this edition of Expert Opinions. Read on for more).
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Glass,1 donut-glazed and more recently, pearl skin2 concepts have permeated the beauty market as consumers attempt to define their vision for youthful, healthy skin – essentially perfectly smooth, clear and luminous. According to the source Make,2 #pearlskin had more than 40 million views in April 2024, with solutions to achieve a “smooth, translucent and even-toned complexion that resembles the lustrous appearance of a pearl.” The source adds that this trend focuses on “achieving clarity, brightness and a flawless complexion.” (Several industry experts agree and describe how, in this edition of Expert Opinions. Read on for more).
In the same light, the terms glowing and radiant skin have long been referenced – a look that per Kiehl’s,3 every consumer wants. According to the company, an even-toned, radiant complexion can also help skin look better without makeup, minimize the appearance of concerns like wrinkles, and contribute to an overall healthier look.
Simply put, skin radiance refers to skin’s ability to reflect light, which unlike measurable skin concerns such as acne or wrinkles, is subjective. Kiehl’s explains,4 “researchers typically characterize radiant-looking skin by its luminosity, smoothness and evenness but not even those parameters are universal.” (For more on measuring radiance, see Aral).
A January 2024 report by The Benchmarking Co.5 highlighted the most-sought ingredients in facial masks to help hydrate, moisturize and boost skin health and glow. These include hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol.
Similarly, Kiehl’s highlights hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to stimulate collagen production for a firmer appearance; the latter also helps to inhibit melanin production and treat dark spots and other discoloration.3 Conversely, skin radiance can also be achieved by addressing what makes skin appear dull – the most common causes being aging, sun damage and not exfoliating, per Kiehl’s.
Unilever also reports that “glowing skin is a growing trend,” along with the market for powerful ingredients to boost skin’s natural brightness.6 “Future Market Insights [reported] the global market for niacinamide – a type of vitamin B3 which can help skin appear brighter – was valued at $1.2 billion in 2022 and [is] predicted to more than double to $2.5 billion by 2032,” the company wrote. In addition, the global market for retinol cosmetics that encourage cell renewal by promoting turnover was valued at $22 million in 2021, and is predicted to reach $36.4 million by 2031.
The company took these efficacies and combined them in its Niasorcinol innovation, which leverages the retinol-like benefits of ethyl resorcinol to enhance skin radiance with the efficacy of niacinamide. The result is brighter, clearer, glowing skin with clinically proven efficacy to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.”
Raw Skin Insider7 adds that while consumers seek that radiant glow seen post-facial or during ovulation, lasting luminosity is about embracing a holistic approach to skin care and self-care. “Sure, niacinamide, vitamin C and mandelic acid play crucial roles, but true radiance goes beyond skin care ingredients,” the source reports.
“It’s about:
- nourishing our bodies from the inside out,
- prioritizing hydration,
- managing stress and
- fostering self-love.”
These deeper, more holistic themes behind skin radiance – among others – are echoed by industry experts. Here, beauty insiders shared insights in terms of what’s shaping today’s market for well aging and skin radiance products.
Natural, Highly Functional and Bio-fermented
Joe Power, business development and partnerships director at Biosyntia, sees naturals as a consistent driver moving this market segment forward. “Consumers are continuously looking at the naturality of their cosmetic products and, increasingly, at the sustainability profile of formulations and packaging,” he writes. “They want clean label ingredients while at the same time they want products to have proven benefits.”
As such, per Power, formulators will need to source more naturally derived ingredients and limit their ingredient choices to those with strong functionality to reduce the ingredient declaration length. “Clinically proven multifunctional active ingredients can help cover multiple claims for a formulator, reducing the number of ingredients to be used and reducing testing time and cost,” he explains.
To move the market forward, Power points to biotech solutions. “Bio-fermentation can assist in creating replacement and novel ingredients from natural sources,” he says, giving the example of Biosyntia’s EraGlow active (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Alcohol Denat. (and) Lecithin (and) Biotin (and) Potassium Carbonate).
“[The ingredient] is an all-natural liposomal active ingredient based on [the company’s] proprietary process to produce biotin (vitamin B7) from microbial sources. The bio-based fermentation and extraction process is better for the environment than the petrochemical process used to produce biotin today, and delivers a natural, high-purity biotin.”
He adds that with EraGlow Beautin, clinical studies have shown increased ceramide and fatty acid production in the skin in only four weeks, as well as skin brightening, hydrating benefits and a reduction in the number and size of brown spots.
Mood Enhancing and Advanced Efficacy
According to Elham Tavasoli, Ph.D., founder and CEO of NextGen Actives, directions in this segment are wellness driven. “Current trends in well-aging and skin radiance focus on maintaining healthy, resilient skin and embracing natural aging,” she writes.
“Educated consumers now seek ways to protect against root causes of skin aging, such as inflammation and environmental stressors. There's also a growing interest in holistic approaches that combine biological and mental well-being. This drives brands to create scientifically advanced products that address aging causes while supporting mental wellness.”
In terms of future directions, Tavasoli believes this mind-skin connection is key. “…[W]ell-aging products will likely see a stronger integration of mental well-being and skin care routines, offering products that promote relaxation and self-care as part of a holistic approach to beauty,” she explains, highlighting the market opportunity in this space.
“There is potential for innovative formulations that integrate skin care with mental wellness benefits, incorporating stress-reducing and mood-enhancing ingredients. This blend of skin care and overall well-being, combined with a focus on effectiveness, hydration and protection, offers brands substantial opportunities to meet the evolving needs of consumers.”
Tavasoli also underscores the demand for dermatological beauty and clinically proven, efficacious products. “…[These] will continue to grow, with consumers seeking results-driven solutions backed by science.”
“Inflammation is a leading cause of premature skin aging,” she continues, “making it crucial to protect the skin from biological and environmental stressors that trigger inflammation to maintain healthy skin and promote well-aging.” To support these future directions, Tavasoli presents NextGen Actives’ Apinol360, a patented dermatological-grade “super antioxidant.”
Apinol360 (INCI: PEG-8 (and) Soybean Lecithin (and) Propolis Extract) is a refined 15% concentrated solution containing four essential phenolic components – caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid and caffeic acid phenethyl ester – blended in PEG-400 and lecithin to provide optimal stability and effective delivery.
“Its efficacy is validated by extensive in vitro studies, in vivo evaluations and clinical trials,” reports Tavasoli. “[These] demonstrate strong anti-oxidative properties and effectiveness in barrier repair, wound healing, antimicrobial [effects], anti-aging [benefits] and anti-wrinkle applications.”
Longevity Focused, ‘Contagious’ Aging and Bio-targeted
“As consumers want holistic, effective and science-backed solutions that protect and maintain their skin health throughout life, well-aging may shift toward skin longevity,” writes Claire Liu, market and digital manager at Seppic. “[This] focuses on addressing the root causes of aging: the biological age, meaning the health of cells.”
Per Liu, skin longevity relies on ingredients targeting molecular and cellular mechanisms such as autophagy, senescence, chronic inflammation, etc., resulting in healthier, younger and more radiant skin. In addition, ingredients associated with nature may resonate more with consumers for skin longevity products. “Seppic focuses on skin longevity with algae-based ingredients acting on cell communication, or on specific molecular aging targets, for example,” Liu explains.
Ingredients such as the company’s Aspar'age (INCI: Aqua/Water (and) Propanediol (and) Asparagopsis Armata Extract) are said to reduce “contagious” aging. “Old cells release a ‘Senescence Messaging Secretome’ (SMS) that affects neighboring young cells, accelerating their senescence,” Liu says. “Aspar’age protects young cells from senescence and improves the perception of age: skin looks younger, less wrinkled and complexion is more even and luminous.”
Another example is Juvenessence (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Alaria Esculenta Extract), which is designed to help mature cells regain youthful characteristics by decreasing progerin. “This protein makes cells unstable and leads to the aging process by affecting skin proteins and dermis and epidermis tissues.” According to Liu, Juvenessence restores mature cells’ progerin levels to that of cells 31 years younger, in turn making skin firmer, more elastic and more radiant.
Liu adds that just as well-aging requires a multifaceted approach, skin longevity routines could benefit from the addition of supplements. “As another example, Seppic has launched Sepitone, a nutraceutical ingredient acting on both skin tone and well aging,” she writes.
Mindful Beauty and Reflection of Health
Léa Seidenbinder, global skin care marketing manager of Syensqo, sees skin radiance as an outward representation of internal well-being. "... Skin radiance is the mirror of what’s happening inside. It is the reflection of overall health, happiness and a well balanced lifestyle." Seidenbinder sees that instead of battling signs of aging, the well-aging market embraces aging gracefully while maintaining healthy radiant skin. "We can see here an increase of overall well-being, where we associate nutritional products to cosmetics (in-and-out beauty products), the rise of preventive skin care products with sunscreens, antioxidants and hydration to preserve skin health over time."
Seidenbinder notes there is also the rise in hero ingredients well-known for their efficacy; e.g., ceramides, vitamins, niacinamide, peptides, retinoids, etc. "In link with radiance, barrier-strengthening products are key, [such as] hydration for glowing skin, exfoliation and glow-enhancing products (like illuminating primers, radiance boosters). Personalized skin care products are also growing. Overall, mindful beauty oversees this category."
In terms of future directions, Seidenbinder points to sustainability and ethical sourcing, with minimalism and transparency being key for the development of cosmetics. On top of this, the emergence of AI skin care will help consumers to find the most effective products for their unique needs.
"Sustainability will be the basis for any ingredients and technology," Seidenbinder writes. "The emergence of white chemistry in cosmetics with biotechnology like fermentation is the proof. The switch from synthetic raw materials to their counterparts obtained from a sustainable source will be the key direction for the development of innovative ingredients."
Finally, Seidenbinder notes that Syensqo sees growing interest in its latest technology, Cerafy, comprising biomimetic natural ceramides coming from fermentation with, for example, Cerafy Pure NPo (INCI: Ceramide NP) as a hero ingredient for moisturization and skin barrier function reinforcement.
Conclusions
Industry innovators will have to dig deeper moving forward to respond to consumers' longing for that youthful, radiant glow; whether through supplements and biological targets, or mood-boosting and mental wellness effects. Beauty has definitely been elevated beyond "skin deep," perhaps even further than ever imagined.
References
1. Rud, M. (2024, Mar 29). Glass skin is the viral beauty trend that'll leave you glowing - Here's how to get it. First for Women. Available at https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/glass-skin-viral-beauty-trend-122728127.html
2. Grossman, E. (2024, Apr 2). Pearl skin trend for spring 2024. Make. Available at https://www.makebeauty.com/blogs/the-logbook/pearl-skin-trend
3. Kiehl's. (Accessed 2024, Sep 10). How to get glowing skin: 5 expert tips. Available at https://www.kiehls.com/skincare-advice/how-to-get-glowing-skin.html
4. Kiehl's. (Accessed 2024, Sept 10). How to get radiant-looking skin. Available at https://www.kiehls.com/skincare-advice/get-radiant-skin.html
5. Herich, D. (2024, Jan 2). What consumers want from skin care masks: New data. Global Cosmetic Industry. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/skin-care/article/22878734/what-consumers-want-from-skin-care-masks-new-data
6. Unilever. (Accessed 2024, Sept 10). Behind the science: New technology for clear, bright, glowing skin. Available at https://www.unilever.com/news/news-search/2023/behind-the-science-new-technology-for-clear-bright-glowing-skin/
7. Raw Skin Insider. (Accessed 2024, Sep 10). Glow like Rihanna: 15 steps to radiant skin, inside and out. Available at https://rawskininsider.com/glow-like-rihanna-15-steps-to-radiant-skin-inside-and-out/
