In hair care, health is today’s top consumer priority, according to Allure.1 In its trend projections for 2024, the source predicted nearly every development in the hair-care category, including treatments and tools, will aim to achieve stronger, healthier and shinier hair.
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In hair care, health is today’s top consumer priority, according to Allure.1 In its trend projections for 2024, the source predicted nearly every development in the hair-care category, including treatments and tools, will aim to achieve stronger, healthier and shinier hair.
For example, scalp care will get smarter, simpler and more specific while bond-building will remain strong. Also, fragrance-free hair care will emerge, aligning with the skinification trend and concerns for sensitive skin. The increased focus on shine will continue, with a closer look at reversing the effects of hard water on hair. And the damaging effects of hair styling tools will be dampened.
Global Cosmetic Industry highlighted three key hair care ingredient trends as well,2 starting with natural and sustainable solutions, e.g., plant extracts and oils; biopolymers for styling and rheology; and gentle plant-based surfactants for cleansing. Specific plant extracts named were saw palmetto, rosemary and mint.
Skinification is a second ingredient trend and something the industry has seen building in recent years. This could mean ingredients that exfoliate or moisturize the scalp much like skin and treat maladies including flaking, dryness, inflammation, etc.
A third ingredient trend cited relates naturals but with deeper roots: ancient beauty rituals using modern botanicals. Examples including rosewater and turmeric connect with both the physical and spiritual for a wellness spin. Lavender promotes relaxation to reduce stress while geranium is said to lift the user’s mood.
To get an inside look at current and future directions for hair conditioning and care, in particular, we reached out to industry experts for their insights. Following are their responses.
Emossome, Exposome and Hair Graying/Density
According to Alexandre Lapeyre, marketing director of Algaktiv, key trends in hair conditioning and care include scalp health, aging hair concerns and natural and sustainable ingredients. “Consumers increasingly prioritize scalp health, recognizing its importance in overall hair vitality,” he wrote. “There is a high demand for products that treat the scalp to enhance hair growth and reduce hair loss.” He added that with the aging population, more consumers seek products to address hair thinning and graying, while there also remains a strong preference for products formulated with natural and eco-friendly ingredients.
Considering future directions, Lapeyre underscores the potential for products targeting aging hair symptoms such as graying and density loss, along with products that nurture scalp health with preventive and therapeutic benefits. To enable these directions, Lapeyre points to the effective delivery of ingredients. “Sophisticated delivery mechanisms enhance the effectiveness of active ingredients by targeting them directly to the scalp and hair follicles,” he explained.
For example, Algaktiv’s Densidyl ingredient (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Chlorella Emersonii Extract (and) Lecithin (and) Spirulina Maxima Extract (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Tocopherol), which won the silver BSB Innovation Award, is said to tackle hair loss and graying through its innovative action on the exposome and emossome (i.e., mastering emotions and environment). “Its inclusion in products meets consumer demand for effective, scientifically backed solutions for aging hair, making it a key player in the next wave of hair care innovations, while outperforming current market benchmarks,” Lapeyre noted.
Eco-friendly, Scalp-focused and Personalized
Natural and clean solutions, driven by sustainability and eco-conscious mindsets, are top of mind in the hair care and conditioning market, per Andrew Miller, BASF’s senior marketing manager for hair, body and oral care in North America. “There continues to be a growing demand for natural and clean ingredients,” he explained. “Consumers are seeking products that are environmentally friendly and cruelty-free.”
Miller added that personalization and customization are on the rise as consumers look for hair care products that cater to their specific needs and concerns. “Multifunctional products are also popular, offering multiple benefits at a convenient price,” Miller noted, continuing, “skinification has also shifted the focus away from just the hair to the scalp, with consumers becoming more aware of the importance of scalp health in maintaining healthy hair.”
Looking ahead, Miller projected that advancements in technology including AI and machine learning will make personalized hair care formulations and recommendations more accurate and accessible. “Consumers may have the opportunity to provide specific hair and scalp data for tailored product recommendations,” he noted.
In terms of ingredients moving this market segment forward, Miller highlighted BASF’s Cetiol Ultimate (INCI: Undecane (and) Tridecane), a “natural and sustainable ingredient that provides deep moisturization and improves hair manageability,” per Miller. In addition, Scalposine (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sarcosine) is designed to help balance the scalp's microbiome, promoting a healthier scalp environment while also reducing scalp irritation, itch and dandruff.
Sustainable and Social Media-driven
Philip Shukla, president at International Cosmetics Centre A/S (ICSC) believes the sustainability trend continues in the hair conditioning/care segment. “[S]ustainable hair care products, like waterless or solid shampoo and conditioner with natural and organic ingredients, [are growing] as consumers consider these kinds of products to be safe, environmentally friendly and effective,” Shukla explained.
Responding to this trend, ICSC launched Cosmosil PCFM HC Oil I.S. (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (and) Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract (and) Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract (and) Tropaeolum Majus Extract), which per Shukla, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The product protects the hair and scalp while conditioning and nourishing hair, Shukla added.
“The [microgreens] used in this product … are all grown in ICSC’s certified Precision Climate Farming facility in Denmark under the most sustainable and CO2 neutral conditions, such as 80% less water and using certified green energy.”
Vaijnath Lad, senior manager of creative cosmetic technologies at ICSC, also sees social media driving this market segment. “Viral social media trends by influencers such as from TikTok, YouTube and Instagram have a massive impact on consumer decisions to purchase hair care products,” he wrote. Examples include products or DIY recipes with natural ingredients the make visible improvements. “With the high penetration of smart phones, the easy and affordable availability of the Internet and newer social media applications, the industry can expect this trend to grow at a must faster rate,” he observed.
Responding to social media trends, Lad referred to ICSC’s Cosmosil HG Oil I.S. (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (and) Phyllanthus Emblica Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract (and) Centella Asiatica Leaves Extract), which have proven efficacy for hair growth and conditioning benefits.
Eco-friendly and ‘Clean Enough’
Jennifer O’Hara, technical marketing manager at Inolex, concurred with Shukla on sustainability as a driver for the hair conditioning/care segment. “Consumers now expect their hair care formulas to contain clean and sustainable ingredients,” she wrote. “They also avoid products they perceive as unsafe for themselves or the environment.”
She added that when they spend more for hair care formulas, consumers want to maximize their investment with multi-tasking formulas that make their hair stronger and healthier. “Currently, many hair care formulas are ‘clean enough,’” she added. “However, as the consumer gets savvy in other industries about biodegradability, impact on aquatic life, carbon footprint reduction and ingredient transparency, they will expect these sustainability qualities in hair care.”
Supporting these market directions, Inolex has created plant-based lamellar technologies, including AminoSensyl Ultra MB (INCI: Brassicyl Valinate Esylate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) and ProCondition 22 (INCI: Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine). “[These ingredients] allow brands to become more sustainable without compromising efficacy,” O’Hara explained, adding they are non-aquatoxic, readily biodegradable and non-irritating. Per O’Hara, they enable hair care formulas that are gentle for hair, skin, Earth and waterways. “Our high-performing conditioners are also multi-taskers, so the end consumer gets the most of their hair care investment.”
‘Inner Hair’ Repair and Environmentally Conscious
Yui Sanada, R&D marketing manager of Nagasa Viita Co., Ltd., sees a focus in the hair conditioning/care segment on repairing chemical damage. “The global hair coloring industry's market value is projected to rise from $24.86 billion in 2022 to $42.05 billion in 2029,3 driven by diverse hair styles for self-expression,” Sanada wrote. “However, chemical treatments for these styles pose risks that can lead to increased breakage, split ends and a decrease of suppleness. Consumers will look for solutions to achieve their hairstyles while repairing the damage from these chemical treatments.”
Per Sunada, there is a growing focus on “inner hair” repair, since bleaching and perms cause significant damage to the internal structure of the hair by opening the cuticle and breaking down melanin and keratin. “Thus, damage to the internal structure eventually weakens the hair, which will drive consumers to look for products with hair-strengthening claims,” Sunada explained.
As the hair care market continues to grow,4 Sunada believes consumers will recognize that products can have potential negative environmental impacts, especially on water pollution. “[As such], consumers will look for products not only with functionality, but also manufactured with sustainable, plant-derived and biodegradable ingredients to minimize water pollution and promote a healthy ocean environment.”
To support these trends, Lissenare (INCI: Hydrolyzed Corn Starch (and) Water (Aqua)) was developed. “This hair care and styling ingredient is 100% naturally derived and readily biodegradable, and sustainably manufactured through an advanced enzymatic technology to meet today’s sustainability demands,” Sunada explained. “This ingredient improves the crystalline structure of inner hair keratin fibers and enhances the strength and flexibility of chemically damaged hair. By doing so, Lissenare revitalizes hair health and vitality, allowing individuals to achieve their desired hairstyles with confidence.”
Next-level Benefits and Plant-based
“The market for leave-on and rinse-off conditioners is shaped by various trends including hair health, skinification, scalp care and sustainability,” Ophélie Bourgon, marketing manager for Roquette Beauté, wrote. “Also, consumers expect more from conditioners than they do for shampoos. The consumer's basic drivers are moisturizing, repairing damage and fighting frizz. They are also expecting more inclusivity to [address issues in] all hair types and are willing to invest in higher-quality hair care products if they deliver on their promises.”
In terms of future directions, Bourgon believes next-level benefits are to be expected. “But even if consumers are willing to pay more, there is still a need and high potential for low-cost solutions with premium-inspired benefits,” she added. “The inclusion of ingredient claims and solutions in mass-market products will continue to grow and will catch the eye of consumers.”
Moving forward, Bourgon sees plant-based and biodegradable ingredients as playing a big role in enabling the hair care conditioner market to continue its progression. “At Roquette Beauté, we offer two ingredients that can be easily added to leave-on or rinse-off conditioners, that will provide dry and wet combing efficacy while also soothing the scalp and protecting the diversity of the scalp microbiota,” Bourgon explained.
For example, Beauty by Roquette PO 455 hydrogenated starch hydrolysate is described as a COSMOS approved, easy to use biodegradable ingredient supporting dry and wet combing efficacy claims. “[It can] reach 75% efficacy of non-COSMOS cationic ingredients such as cetrimonium chloride and amodimethicone,” Bourgon explained. In addition, Beauté by Roquette DE 006 dextrin offers scalp-soothing benefits and is certified microbiome-friendly for the scalp. “This ingredient has been tested after chemical irritation (simulated by SLS) that can be [caused by] shampoos and/or conditioners.”
Multifunctional, Inclusive and Minimalist
“Consumers are looking for personalized multifunctional products that are specific to their hair care needs,” explained Angelia Peavey, senior technical sales and marketing manager, SNF. “Social media influencers, beauty trends and environmental concerns are some of the consumer drivers.”
She added that emerging markets are demanding better-performing hair care products. Therefore, consumer brands can adapt their product offerings to meet the unique needs and preferences of consumers in different regions. “Continued advancements in formulation technologies can lead to the development of more effective and multifunctional hair care products.
To meet these market needs, Peavey points to SNF’s Flocare Polyquaternium 37 range. “[It] provides a solution for several concerns and offers future directions for potential growth,” she wrote. “Polyquaternium 37 can thicken, emulsify, provide wet hair combing benefits and aid with heat protection.” She added that the range’s efficacy allows formulators to create minimalist formulas without compromising on performance. “This aligns with the consumer demand for clean and simplified ingredient list.”
Hair Health, Damage Control and Skinification
Finally, Kumpal Mehta, technical marketing manager for hair care at Tri-K, shared, “[T]here is a strong emphasis on preserving hair health despite exposure to chemical treatments or heat styling. Consumers seek products that allow them to conduct their hair routine without compromising on hair’s overall condition or appearance.” As such, products that repair damage, strengthen hair and protect against further damage or environmental pollution are in demand.
Mehta also highlighted the skinification of hair with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and collagen to boost hair wellness. “…Consumers want their hair and scalp to look and feel healthy, leading to a rise in products that support scalp health, anti-hair loss and maintaining the scalp microbiome.” Per Mehta, these market directions carry an underlying theme of sustainable, clean ingredients that do not compromise on efficacy.
“With climate change, ingredients that not only protect against consumer-inflicted damage like chemical treatments and styling, but also protect against external aggressors will be an area of growth,” Mehta added. Therefore, sustainable alternatives to high-performing ingredients like silicones will be in demand.
Supporting future developments in this category, Mehta described Tri-K’s EssentiaTein Protect (INCI: Hydrolyzed Rice Protein (and) Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract (and) Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract), a combination of three sustainable ingredients that protects hair from pollution and offers antioxidant properties. Furthermore, Fision KeraVeg 18 (INCI: Wheat Amino Acids (and) Soy Amino Acids (and) Arginine HCl (and) Serine (and) Threonine) is a vegetable-based alternative to animal keratin. “This ingredient increases tensile strength and hair elasticity for damaged hair and protects against damage from flat ironing as well, providing many of the benefits of hydrolyzed keratin from an ethical ingredient,” Mehta explained.
Conclusion
In all segments of beauty, including hair conditioning/care, sustainability has become the status quo – and processes like biofermentation are raising the bar on both eco-friendliness and efficacy. In addition, the focus on health and wellness has extended to the hair and scalp, ascending to a holistic, emotional plane.
References
1. Panych, S. (2023, Dec 8). The top hair-care trends of 2024 provide healthy hair is our top priority. Allure. Available at https://www.allure.com/story/2024-haircare-trends
2. Global Cosmetic Industry. (2023, Sep 1). 3 Hair care ingredient trends. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/ingredients/hair-care/article/22871849/3-hair-care-ingredient-trends
3. Statista. (2023, Jun 1). Market value of hair dye/color worldwide in 2022 and 2029 (in million U.S. dollars). [Graph]. Available at https://www.statista.com/statistics/972997/global-hair-color-market-value/
4. Statista. (2023, Sep 5). Revenue of the hair care market worldwide from 2015 to 2028 (in million U.S. dollars). [Graph]. Available at https://www.statista.com/forecasts/1268477/worldwide-revenue-hair-care-market
