C&T's "Consumer Pulse" series on the socials highlights the latest emerging consumer searches and hashtags related to cosmetics. Here, we expand on those themes. This edition includes: ADVB Cosmetics, Kvitok Kozmetika, ghetto makeup, Gorka Kozmetik, Morgane Makeup, salmon DNA PDRN, high/low contrast makeup, face "weight," IBA Cosmetics, Garba makeup, vitamin C scrub, hair texturizer powder and clay pomade. Following are specific growth statistics for these terms, notes on what we uncovered about them, plus a deeper dive into some that caught our interest.
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C&T's "Consumer Pulse" series on the socials highlights the latest emerging consumer searches and hashtags related to cosmetics. Here, we expand on those themes. This edition includes: ADVB Cosmetics, Kvitok Kozmetika, ghetto makeup, Gorka Kozmetik, Morgane Makeup, salmon DNA PDRN, high/low contrast makeup, face "weight," IBA Cosmetics, Garba makeup, vitamin C scrub, hair texturizer powder and clay pomade. Following are specific growth statistics for these terms, notes on what we uncovered about them, plus a deeper dive into some that caught our interest.
- ADVB Cosmetics - Breakout ("significant") growth* - no apparent recent headlines; the Turkish brand is trending on socials; creamy-textured lip and cheek color featured for any gender
- Kvitok Kozmetika +2,350%* - featured in a Top Fashion report in December 2023 as an "honest natural cosmetic," hand-created in Slovakia; among its top-selling products is a solid shampoo with conditioner featuring maca root to stimulate hair growth
- Ghetto makeup +2,300%* - A recent story by Elle featured Black female track star Sha'Carri Richardson for her embrace of bright-colored hair and long nails, ignoring some negative perceptions that these are "ghetto" looks by "attention-seeking" Black women. Notably, "ghetto makeup" is gaining both negative and positive attention on social platforms. There's even "clean ghetto" and "ghetto cute" looks. But to some, there's an underlying story of judgement by race and poverty level that makes "ghetto makeup" derogatory.
- Gorka Kozmetik +1,450%* - unfortunately, today (Oct. 11, 2024) NTV reports a fire broke out at the Gorka Cosmetics factory in Tekirdağ, Turkey
- Morgane Makeup +700* - a quick search on "Morgane Makeup" yields two main results: the French shoe brand Christian Louboutin announced its expansion into cosmetics in 2023 with makeup artist Morgane Martini; and more recently, several social media posts by the TikTok influencer known as morganemakeupytb_ TikTok, which has gained 436.5K followers. She posts lifestyle, lip-sync and dance content, often wearing glasses and a variety of different makeup looks.
- Low contrast makeup +500%* - we explore this below
- High contrast makeup +300%* - we explore this below
- Iba cosmetics +250%* - making our list again is the Internet-first Indian beauty brand
- Garba makeup/Garba makeup look +180%* - per web sources, the traditional Indian dance of Garba is performed during the Navratri celebration, which this year was held Oct. 3-11, making this a timely increase in web searches.
- PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide, from salmon DNA) +200% (past 2 yrs, Exploding Topics, 60.5K search volume) - we dig into this below
- Vitamin C scrub +7% (past 2 yrs, Exploding Topics, 2.9K search volume)
- Hair texturizing powder +152.3%, Spate, year over year; we dig into this below
- Clay pomade +48.4%, Spate, year over year; we dig into this below
*per Google Trends, past seven days
High/Low Contrast Makeup
Searches on "high contrast makeup" are up 500%, and on "low contrast makeup" are up 300% in the past week, per Google Trends. This idea of high-medium-low contrast makeup is all over social media. One TikTok video posted one day before I wrote this report already has 9.2M+ views. According to these reports, consumers should apply makeup based on how much color contrast the have from the top to the bottom of their hair, forehead, eyebrows, eyes, cheeks and lips. Dark hair + eyes with light skin refers to high contrast; light hair + skin + eyes or dark hair + skin + eyes would be considered low contrast. Color schemes are given for each.
High/Low Visual Facial 'Weight'
In exploring the high/low contrast makeup trend, we ran across a related one that's also blowing up the social feeds: high and low "visual facial weight." Numerous TikTok videos feature how-tos for figuring out yours; one in particular, from @helinndoski, has more than 277K likes.
Purewow reported on this trend, interviewing professional makeup artist Mat Wulff who explained "visual weight refers to which facial features stand out and attract the most attention based on factors like size, color and placement. Once you figure out your visual weight, it can help redefine your makeup routine, from changing how you apply your products to focusing on specific shades to enhance your features."
Vogue also dove into this theme, explaining that "...larger and angular features define high-visual-weight faces, whereas low-visual-weight faces have more rounded and smaller facial features." High-visual-weight face examples given include Angelina Jolie, Julia Roberts and Blackpink’s Lisa; low-visual weights include Selena Gomez, IU and Taylor Swift.
From a cosmetics R&D angle, products creating visual light and color effects for contouring and highlighting are obviously highly relevant to this trend. There are also topical cosmetic actives designed to lift sagging skin, tighten and sculpt contours and even improve skin density to impart a more oval or v-shaped appearance. Now is the time for these product developers to ride this TikTok wave.
Salmon-derived PDRN Anti-aging, Skin Repair, K-beauty Metatrend
Another rising trend is interest in PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide). Per Exploding topics, searches on this ingredients are up 200% in the past few years. The source reports this substance is derived from salmon DNA and used in both topical and injectable cosmetic treatments to impart regenerative properties and promote cell growth and repair for wound healing, skin rejuvenation and more.
As reported by the Chinese Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, PDRN consists of DNA fragments with molecular weights ranging from 50 to 1,500 kDa. Its benefits are mediated by activating the adenosine A2A receptor and salvage pathways, which promote collagen synthesis, soft tissue regeneration and skin revitalization, among others, as well as treat hyperpigmentation, per the source.
Exploding Topics notes PDRN has become a global skin care trend, with Korean beauty brands like Banobagi leading the way. For example, the company offers its PDRN Repair Real Balm. It is described as an all-in-one skin care stick for firm and moisturized skin. Highlighted ingredients include sodium DNA, salmon egg extract, hyaluronic acid and copper tripeptide-1. Notably, PDRN also falls under the Korean skin care metatrend, with searches for k-beauty more than doubling in the past five years.
Ingredients (PDRN Repair Real Balm): Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ozokerite, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Water (Aqua), Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, (-)-alpha-bisabolol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Adenosine, Sodium DNA, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Silybum Marianum Seed Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Octyldodecanol, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caprylyl Glycol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.
Hair Texturizing Powder
Finally, on the hair care front, according to Spate, texturizing powder is trending with an average of 14.9K monthly searches, up 152.3% compared to last year (2023). TikTok is the main driver, recording a 939.1% increase in views over the past year and averaging 8.7M weekly views. Per the source, consumers are looking to improve their hair texture with the help of popular brands like Base Body Works Texture Powder, Davines Dry Texturizer, Ethos Texture Powder and Slick Gorilla Powder.
How do they work? Per the Base Body Works Texture Powder website, the product is sprayed into hair to give instant texture and volume. It is said to be lightweight, stylable and to provide all day hold. The powder incorporates the following ingredients:
- Silica sicylate to add structure and volume,
- Silica to add structure and nutrients,
- Maranta Arundinacea Root Extract: to absorb excess oil,
- Mica to add texture, and
- Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder: to strenghten hair with amino acids.
