Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy

Early in 2023, Global Cosmetic Industry highlighted Spate’s trends report outlining the top skin care trends that would dominate the market this year. Among them were sunscreen stick, peptide moisturizer, powder sunscreen, skin barrier, SPF tinted moisturizer and others. This reflects the continued focus on skin protection and restoration.¹

“The skin barrier trend is having its moment; and it's only just the beginning,” Spate emphasized. “With only 3.5K average monthly branded searches, there's room for more players in this market.” Searches for product forms such as creams, oils and serums were highlighted, which present opportunities for brands. The top skin care concerns predicted for growth included: dermatitis, sunburn, milia, acne, hormonal acne, sun spots, hyperpigmentation, skin barrier, dead skin, sun damage and discoloration.¹

“Consumers are becoming more aware of the importance of sun protection in their daily skin care routines,” Spate added. “With consumers searching [on terms such as] sunburn, sun spots and sun damage, many are experiencing the consequences of not using sunscreen.” The firm added that rising interest in dermatitis and the skin barrier indicates consumers could be overdoing it when it comes to skin care.

It's well beyond consumer behavior, however. Future Market Insights (FMI)² cited other key drivers in its review of skin care market growth from 2017-2021. “Global warming and climate change have increased the usage of skin care products,” the firm reported. “Skin gets overly dark, dry and cracked as a result of growing dusty and dry weather and strong sunshine.”

FMI added that an overall increase in industry has raised levels of pollution in urban areas, which can negatively impact skin and prompt consumers to reach for skin defense products. Taken together, a greater awareness about the adverse effects of extreme climate changes, along with an increased understanding of ingredients to address skin conditions, boosted the market’s expansion at a 4.6% CAGR from 2017-2021.

Looking forward, FMI projects a 8.1% CAGR from 2022-2032, driven by increasing demand for self-care products and natural and healthy ingredients – and a willingness to pay higher prices for a more youthful, brighter and healthier appearance.²

What does the industry see as drivers in the current and future “compromised skin care” segment? We asked several industry experts to weigh in. Following are their responses, many of which echo these analyst observations.

Multifunctional, Lasting, Effective and Protective Benefits

Consumers are becoming more conscious of their health – and skin care plays an integral role. According to Allison Garlet, marketing manager of bioactives, and Hannah Cwienkala, marketing manager of sun and skin care, both of BASF North America, consumers are no longer seeking one specific benefit from products; they want a multitude of benefits to achieve a healthy, glowing look.

Consumers are no longer seeking one specific benefit from products; they want a multitude of benefits to achieve a healthy, glowing look."

“Consumers …[expect products to be] innovative, effective, long-lasting, sensitive skin friendly and [to protect] the skin from external aggressors,” they write. Other trends include anti-pollution, “derma” skin care, technologies that quickly deliver perceivable results and lighter formulations.

Beyond these must-have benefits is the need for sustainable solutions. “Materials will have to have more transparent supply chains,” they note, highlighting fermentation and naturally derived solutions as key for these trends.

Some key ingredients supporting these trends are BASF’s Castaline BC10133 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Leaf Extract, an upcycled active that is clinically demonstrated to improve the appearance of atopic-prone skin and support a healthy skin barrier.

Also, Seanactiv BC10113 (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Gluconolactone (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Chloride) is an ingredient based on traceable, algae-derived fucoidans that helps to decrease eye area signs of aging and supports a healthier look.

Finally, Retinol 50 (INCI: Retinol (and) Polysorbate-20) is a longstanding ingredient with proven efficacy for healthy, youthful-looking skin. “Retinol 50 is a high active load of retinol but does not contain ingredients of concern BHA and BHT; removing these ingredients better aligns with clean beauty lists,” they write.

Countering the Effects of Drought, Heat and Wildfire Smoke on Skin

Amandine Werle, marketing specialist at Clariant, underscores the growing prevalence of consumers with compromised skin. “One of the drivers for this is climate change,” she writes. “It is modifying the environment we live in, with higher temperatures and drought, but also increased exposure to humid and hot environments caused by strong rainfalls during warm summer months as we’ve experienced this year in the north hemisphere.”

She explains that these modifications can affect our microbiota, making micro-organisms responsible for skin sensitization more prominent. In addition, she points to the smoke from large forest fires – which will become more frequent in the future – as causing potential irritation reactions in the skin.

“[Solutions to protect] the microbiota and reduce skin inflammatory process caused by external agents will be key to responding to consumers’ needs and caring for compromised skin,” she writes, adding that reinforcing the skin barrier will be crucial. According to Werle, this benefit will come from the development of actives that specifically target some of these issues the skin now faces, supported by clinical tests in volunteers living in these new environments.

Active ingredients already being used to reinforce and soothe compromised skin include Clariant’s Ethience Protect (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Bertholletia Excelsa Extract), which helps to reinforce the three layers of the skin to improve barrier protection. Also, RedSnow (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Camellia Japonica Flower Extract) is described as “a powerful antioxidant that can protect the skin against the effects of wildfire smoke exposure.” Finally, Beracare CBA (INCI: Copaifera Officinalis (Basalm Copaiba) Resin (and) Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol) has soothing properties and helps to rebalance sensitive skin microbiota.

Anti-climate Change, Microbiome and Natural Shields

As is well-known, a strong barrier is the first line of defense against compromised skin. Rune Daneels, product manager of Oleon Health and Beauty, explains, “Consumers are interested in building a healthy skin microbiome and holobiont to protect against the damages of climate, pollution, UV rays, physical stressors and chemicals, in combination with harsh or abrasive products [used] during skin care routines.”

According to Daneels, the industry is seeing a move toward the use of natural lipids, emollients and next-level sun care protection to shield and repair this delicate environment. “Increasingly, consumers will move [away] from using harsh chemical peels, lasers and devices that could compromise the skin barrier.”

The industry is seeing a move toward the use of natural lipids, emollients and next-level sun care protection to shield and repair the delicate skin environment."

To support these consumer concerns, Oleon’s Jolee range offers natural and innovative emollients that, per Daneels, “stop evaporation, protect the skin barrier and offer fantastic elasticizing and lubricating effects with a great texture and skin feel.” Jolee 7750 (INCI: Isoamyl Laurate), for example, is a natural emollient with silicone-like sensory properties that is suitable for cold and hot processes.

Jolee 7181 (INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate), described as a “non-greasy, protective emollient with glossy finish,” is recommended for use in sun care formulations. Jolee 7202 (INCI: Propylene Glycol Diheptanoate), is also a natural emollient and silicon alternative with excellent spread, absorption and lightness. Finally, Jolee 7777 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Glyceryl Oleate Citrate SE (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) is designed to provide improved film-forming properties and water resistance compared with standard O/W emulsions.

Clinically Proven Damage Prevention and Barrier Health Support

According to Alex Walther, technical services manager for beauty and personal care at Univar Solutions, products for compromised skin are a growing market segment and include solutions to soothe, repair and protect the barrier and microbiome. Damage prevention and support for a healthy barrier are major directions for this market.

“Consumers … concerned about their skin barrier are devoted to learning about their skin and the ingredients and formulations that can help,” Walther writes. “They are often looking for key ingredients that are backed by clinical studies and increased levels of transparency for all ingredients in the formula.”

Consumers are more educated than ever. Per Walther, they now know that UV exposure and pollution are two major factors that can damage the skin barrier and cause oxidative stress, inflammation and premature aging.

“Consumers are increasingly looking for products that can shield their skin to keep their natural skin barrier intact,” Walther explains. “Moreover, with digital shopping being the go-to, savvy brands are including images from clinical studies as further proof of their marketing claims.”

Supporting these market trends, dsm-firmenich’s upgraded Quali B - Niacinamide PC delivers a topical vitamin B3 while minimizing potential unwanted effects such as the sensation of heat in the skin caused by residual nicotinic acid. “Quali B - Niacinamide PC contains less than 100 ppm residual nicotinic acid, making it exceptionally well-tolerated,” Walther explains.

In addition, vitamin B3 still has “the power to surprise,” Walther concludes. “Recent proprietary research by dsm-firmenich revealed that it could prove [to be] a powerful ally in the latest challenges facing the beauty industry: environmental pollution and ubiquitous blue light.”

References

1. Sobotka, M. (2023, Feb 6). Spate's 2023 top skin care trends, concerns and products. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/consumers-markets/news/22697632/spates-2023-top-skin-care-trends-concerns-products

2. FMI. (Accessed 2023, Aug 7). Skin care market overview 2022 to 2032. Available at  https://www.futuremarketinsights.com/reports/skincare-market