8 Trends in Beauty — Targeting Child Labor Mica Mining, Russian Beauty, HNB Powder, Torriden LMW HA Toner and More

Each week, C&T digs into growing trends in web searches and hashtags related to cosmetics. Emerging this week are: mica cosmetics, mining, child labor and taking action; discontinued/free cosmetics and the Russian beauty market; Kat Von D makeup; HNB Cosmetics Soft Focus Loose Powder; tô.que.to cosmétic (the official store of Grupo Boticário and other cosmetic brands in Brazil); pirate makeup; Torriden Dive-in Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Toner; and birch juice moisturizer and toner.

See last week's: 10 Trends in Beauty — Maelys' Booty-lifting Mask, Panthenol Skin Care, Nose Bumps and More

1. マイカ 化粧品 ("mica cosmetics," in Japanese, per Google Translate) +1,450%*
2. списанная косметика бесплатно ("discarded/discontinued cosmetics for free," in Russian, per Google Translate) +160%*
3. Kat Von D makeup +100%*
4. HNB Cosmetics +70%*
5. tô.que.to cosmétic* +70%*
6. Pirate Makeup +687.5% week over week (per Spate)
7. Torriden Toner +8,700% (past 2 yrs, per Exploding Topics)
8. Birch juice moisturizer +6,200% and toner +5,900% (past 2 yrs, per Exploding Topics)

*per Google Trends, last seven days

Mica Cosmetics, Mining, Child Labor and Taking Action

Searches for "mica cosmetics" (in Japanese, per Google Translate) are up 1,450% in the past week, according to Google Trends. The most recent news report we could find related to this was a May 7, 2024, YouTube post from TBS News Dig (in Japanese) exposing a mica mine in Madagascar for its dangerous conditions and use of child labor. This is not the first time our industry has faced this supply chain blind spot. The good news is, today, we're aware of it and taking action.

As TBS News Dig explained (per Google Translate), a mining site in the south, Andranondambo, employs chlidren such as 15-year-old "Valista," who "has been spending more than nine hours a day at the mine since he was 11 years old." According to the post, Valista climbed down into a hole more than 10 meters (~32 ft) deep to collect mica, with little room to move, twisting his body in an unstable, eroding space "that it could collapse at any time."

Mica applications: Who is using the mined mica? It is a well-known ingredient in cosmetics, although many industries apply it. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) reports mica is used in electronics (~26% of the world’s mined mica) and paints/pigments/inks (~24%). This is followed by cosmetics and personal care (~18%), where it is especially incorporated into eyeshadows and lipsticks to provide luster or sparkle.

Depressed region sourcing: "India and China are the main producers of natural mica," the CTPA reports. "Within India, ... the states where mica is found are amongst the poorest ... [and are] very remote and cut off from other regions. The land is poor and difficult for irrigation ... as a result, the region is prone to labor abuses and the use of child labor. For many, the mica that their children collect is the sole income for their families."

The CTPA adds that child labor has also been identified in Madagascar, where according to TBS News Dig, agriculture previously supported the lives of the Andranondambo locals but this has declined due to climate change. Therefore, "the only way to survive is for the whole family, including children, to mine mica." 

Taking action: To source mica more sustainably, cosmetic companies have implemented codes of conduct considering the communities with which they work. "Cosmetic manufacturers also work with their suppliers to create local sustainable sources wherever possible," CTPA explains. "This helps to avoid practices where people of all ages could be exploited and seeks to introduce labor standards which preclude the employment of children."

Companies also work with organizations such as NGOs and charities on initiatives to avoid such exploitation; one example is the Responsible Mica Initiative. Many major players in beauty and other industries support this initiative.

TBS News Dig noted the movement to eliminate human rights violations as well. It even cited the British brand LUSH for taking it a step further, switching to synthetic mica to eliminate child labor from the supply chain. 

Alternatives: Considering alternatives, the CTPA described other effect pigments the industry might consider. Synthetic mica (INCI: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite), for example, has been used to create pearl effect pigments, although per the association, there is not yet a match to all products produced on natural mica. Synthetic mica has a brighter, whiter, cleaner appearance than natural mica. Other substrates include borosilicates, silica and alumina.

Moving away from natural mica, though, might not be the best alternative, the CTPA emphasized, since for many impoverished families, the mica supply chain is their only source of income. Moving to responsibly sourced natural mica instead would help to "ensure that the families involved have access to health care and education for their children."

See related: The 2024 Sun Care Agenda

Discontinued Cosmetics and Russian Beauty Market Dynamics

Increased searches for "discarded cosmetics" (in Russian, per Google Translate) made last week's list of top trends and appeared again this week — up 2,300% last week and an additional +160% this time — so we dug a little deeper. This trend appears to relate more precisely to cosmetics that have been "discontinued" or "written off," and how to get them for free.

Several TikTok posts and even digital platforms dedicated to discontinued beauty products or getting free samples came up in our Google search (many in Russian); Golden Apple, Free Cosmetic Testing, Market Yandex and Cosmeticadarom are a few examples. This trend seems to indicate that beauty consumers in the war zone are being frugal and tightening their belts; but market indicators don't necessarily support this presumption.

Moscow-based market analyst firm RMAA, for example, reported in March 2024, "The cosmetics market in Russia is experiencing steady growth, with a corresponding increase in investment." The firm noted that sanctions against Russia by the U.S. and Europe in 2022 caused multinational companies (that controlled 70% of the market) to exit, as previously reported. However, this caused little to no inconvenience for consumers and led to the emergence of new brands and trends. Per RMAA, 66% of survey respondents reported no inconvenience while 77% found domestic substitutes.

Technavio concurs, the cosmetics market in Russia is expected to increase by US $1 billion at a CAGR of 5.95% between 2022 and 2027; RMMA presents a more conservative estimate of 2.69% (2024-2028). Either way, the direction is "up" and per Technavio, drivers include increased purchasing power of individuals 30-50 years fueling demand, rapid urbanization, and social media influencers and bloggers reshaping consumer preferences and driving brand awareness.

HNB Cosmetics: Soft Focus Loose Powder

Searches on HNB Cosmetics are up 70% this week, according to Google Trends. This might be attributed to its May 31, 2024, callout in Vogue UK's "best setting powder shortlist." The brand's Soft Focus Loose Powder was named "best affordable setting powder," retailing for 13.50 GBP (~US $17).

The source describes the powder as "finely milled for a soft focus finish that rivals that of its spennier counterparts." This product is said to deliver a flawless shield against sweat and shine. It is available in six shades, "spanning translucent, banana and dark deep, which can be matched to your base, concealer and bronzer for lasting dimension," Vogue UK reported.

The brand website promotes the product as a lightweight formula that "sets makeup and keeps makeup on all day." It does not cause photography flashback and blurs pores to give a "flawless" smooth under eye and base.

Ingredients: HNB Cosmetics Soft Focus Loose Powder: Mica, Zea Mays Starch, Silica, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Squalane, Magnesium Myristate, Magnesium Stearate, Triethoxycaprylysilane, Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate; may contain: CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 16035, CI 19140. (per Boots website)

Torriden Dive-in Toner with 5 Different MW HAs

According to Exploding Topics, interest in Torriden Toner has skyrocketed 8,700% in the past two years. This Korean brand skin toner is formulated with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in five different sizes, as reported by L'Officiel, for "comprehensive hydration." The vegan, fragrance-free product is said to penetrate deeply, providing long-lasting hydration while improving skin texture without leaving a greasy residue. Koreanskincare.co.uk adds that allantoin and Portulaca oleracea extract are included in the product "to gently exfoliate skin while providing soothing comfort."

Ingredients: Torriden Dive-in Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid Toner: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Betaine, Allantoin, Panthenol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, 2,3-Butanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Malachite Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin. (per Koreanskincare.co.uk website)

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