Oleon Health and Beauty has launched Radiastar 1436 (INCI: Isocetyl Isoarachidol), a vegetable-based, multibranched Guerbet alcohol with a wide range of beauty applications thanks to its film-forming properties, soft, cushioning sensory profile and "fantastic" gloss.
Flexible Film, Colorfast Effects, Strength and Gloss for Lipsticks
For example, when used in lipstick formulations, Radiastar 1436 assists in creating a solid, uniform layer on the lips that reportedly does not flake or break even as the solvent evaporates. The ingredient also leaves a firm deposit after application with good adhesion, for flexible coverage that is sturdy enough to flex with lip movements.
“Radiastar 1436 was shown to increase the break strength of lipstick without increasing lipstick hardness too substantially," explains Ine Matthè, product manager at Oleon Health & Beauty. "This Guerbet alcohol can therefore be used to create a more resilient lipstick without compromising the payoff. And, with its high refractive index, Radiastar 1436 gives a nice gloss to the lipstick together with a high color intensity,”
Guerbet Alcohol Structure and Properties
According to the company, due to its branched structure, Radiastar 1436 is liquid at room temperature, which is an exceptional characteristic for a molecule of C36 carbon chain length.
As Tony O'Lenick previously explained:
Guerbet alcohols have significantly lower melting points than linear alcohols with the same number of carbon atoms. ... This makes them highly desirable in the personal care market.
Due to their branching, Guerbet alcohols are high molecular weight, so they:
- have low irritation properties;
- are branched and therefore liquid to extremely low temperatures;
- have low volatility;
- are primary alcohols and hence are reactive and can be used to make many derivatives;
- are useful as superfatting agents; and
- are good lubricants.
Also, Guerbet alcohols are essentially saturated, hence they:
- exhibit good oxidative stability at elevated temperatures;
- have excellent color initially and at elevated temperatures; and
- exhibit improved stability over unsaturated products in many applications.
It is these properties that make Guerbet alcohols of interest both as compounds and raw materials to make derivatives.
Guerbet Alcohol Market Growth
Indeed, according to Fact.MR, the global Guerbet alcohol market is estimated to reach US $1.21 billion in 2024 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 4.3% to reach $1.84 billion by 2034. The extensive use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics and personal care is cited as one driver. Per the source, key benefits of these alcohols are their high purity, low volatility and irritation potential, better biodegradability and good thermal stability.
Occlusivity, Stability and Pigment Dispersion
On a final note, according to Oleon Health and Beauty, the occlusivity of Radiastar 1436 is comparable to mineral oil and better than octyldodecanol, making it an ideal green alternative to synthetic film formers.
“With its unique skin feel, good oxidation stability, and excellent pigment dispersion properties, Radiastar 1436 is a superior film-forming emollient for use in a broad range of color cosmetic and personal care formulations,” Ine Matthè, product manager at Oleon Health & Beauty explains.
