Expert Opinions on Hair/Scalp Care — Health, Repair, Holistic Focus, Microbiome, AI and Transparency

Vogue recently reported, in the article “5 Hair Trends to Look for in 2024, According to the Experts,” that this year (2024) is all about rejuvenating hair. One hairstylist cited an increase in consumers who are hair slugging and using treatment buns for hair restoration – along with investing in quality styling tools calibrated with hair health in mind.¹

The five trends, per Vogue, include: natural colors, midi cuts, minimal styling, holistic hair health and “fresh” accessories. These translate to lower-maintenance color, medium lengths, minimalist cuts with effortless styling, scalp care and hydrating styling products requiring no heat, and fresh floral accessories.¹

Hair-related research in the literature in the past month alone (January to February 2024) reflects some of these trends. For example, one study explored the revitalization of hair ends using a holistic elderflower hair mask. Reminiscent of the prevalent elderberry cold and flu supplement, elderflower contains flavonoids, such as quercetin and rutin, that per the authors, impart anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, addressing scalp irritation and itch.

The high concentration of antioxidants in elderflower also combats oxidative stress, protecting against environmental damage and promoting overall hair health.² Subsequently, elderflower provides nourishing, hydrating and fortifying effects on hair strands, revitalizing and strengthening it.

For an even more holistic approach, the elderflower mask also incorporated lemon hydrosol for cleansing and clarifying properties, cedar hydrosol for soothing effects, BTMS for hair conditioning, broccoli oil for moisture retention, grapefruit essential oil as an invigorating aroma and laurel essential oil for its potential to promote hair strength and scalp health.²

Another study identified the loss of polysulfides in hair caused by stress – e.g., heat shock and UV exposure – and, in turn, the loss of antioxidant activity in hair. Sulfur supplementation was found to improve hair strength and the structure of cuticles.³ Elsewhere, juglone, a compound present in walnut extracts, was proposed as a restoring agent for hair keratin treated with permanent or discoloration processes, with promising results.⁴

An all-time favorite, hyaluronic acid (HA), was also recently examined closely since, per the authors, while the benefits of HA are known, its penetration into hair and interaction with fibers had not been established. Here, Raman analysis showed that a blend of HA of different weights penetrated hair 5.9× more than the placebo and significantly reduced spontaneous frizz by 11%. Per the authors, the HA blend also repaired hair by increasing the elastic modulus and the break force, and increasing the water content in hair shafts.⁵

Research has even explored how nano-chitosome (CTS) and microspicule (MS) formulations loaded with extracts from deer antler velvet (DAV) may stimulate hair growth. According to the authors, DAV contains bioactive macromolecules such as proteins, growth factors and amino acids that can stimulate keratinocyte and dermal papilla cell proliferation.⁶

Here, the CTS and MS synergistically supported the permeation and deposition of macromolecular DAV protein into the skin and hair follicles. Applying a CTS-MS gel formula to scalp skin for 14 and 28 days was found to significantly improve hair growth and melanin content without skin irritation.⁶

Consumer trends and literature insights are good indicators of where the scalp and hair care industry is today and where it will go. More definitive, however, are accounts directly from industry experts – some of which are provided next.

Health, Transparency and Data-backed Claims

According to Jackie Kleinsorgen, associate innovation chemist for beauty and personal care at Univar Solutions, current trends in the hair and scalp care market largely surround consumer interest in improved hair health beyond just appearance. “These trends include interest in mild ingredients, strengthening formulas and vitamins and other actives,” she explains. “We also see more products aimed at treating hair damage and claiming ‘bond repair’ appearing in the market.”

Kleinsorgen believes that moving forward, similar to skin care, these trends may be amplified by greater interest in transparency from brands about the safety and efficacy of their ingredients for hair and scalp health. “It is important, in this sense, to use ingredients that have data to backs up claims,” she notes.

Supporting current and future directions, Kleinsorgen highlights offerings from dsm-firmenich including vitamins and actives with performance data in the hair care space. For example, BeauPlex VH (INCI: Niacinamide (and) Calcium Pantothenate (and) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (and) Maltodextrin (and) Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Silica) is a blend of vitamins B3, B5, B6, C and E, which per Kleinsorgen, has clinically been shown to improve hair density and thickness.

Another ingredient from dsm-firmenich is Phytantriol (INCI: Phytantriol), which Kleinsorgen reports “[has been] shown to provide heat protection from blow-drying and to improve the deposition of panthenol and keratin on the hair strand.” Furthermore, data shows the company’s Quali B - Panthenol (INCI: Panthenol) can reduce hair breakage in response to mechanical stresses like brushing or combing. “All of these ingredients having data behind their performance claims will provide consumers with the efficacy information that they are looking for,” Kleinsorgen adds.

Scalp Health and Biotech-driven

Donna Petretti, head of North American marketing for consumer care at Croda Inc., also highlights health as central to today’s hair and scalp care market. “As consumers become more educated, they understand healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp.” She adds that with the skinification of hair care, scalp skin has become a target to treat issues at the root. “Concerns such as itch, scalp eczema and dandruff indicate a need for science-backed products with proven results.”

Per Petretti, hair replenishment products are on the rise – those that help restore hair to its original or most perfect state. “These include products that aim to increase shine, manageability and smoothness.” She adds that consumers are gaining more transparency about hair care ingredients and choosing products containing those that are natural and sustainable.

Moving forward, Petretti believes skin care will continue to blend into hair care and move further into scalp care. “Microbiome scalp care is up-and-coming as consumers are learning about their unique scalp microbiome and searching for products to treat and restore it.”

She adds that clean beauty claims are now expected in hair care, and there is much potential for offering eco-friendly ingredients while providing the same or better level of efficacy. Furthermore, with the focus on natural and sustainable ingredients, biotechnology will play a major role in the innovation of hair care ingredients.

Enabling these trends, Croda plans to launch a 100% natural version of its top seller, Crodamol STS, called Crodamol GTS (INCI: C10-14 Alkyl Polypropanediol-3 Myristate) at Suppliers’ Day in May 2024. This technology boasts an eco-friendly profile, offering biodegradability and low aqua toxicity, while also being vegan suitable and 100% natural. Croda will additionally expand its biopolymer offerings through an upcoming partnership to offer hair bonding solutions.

Scalp Microbiome, AI and Neurocosmetics

Anne Clay Viardot, marketing manager for Ashland, sees future innovation in hair care focusing especially on the scalp. "The increasing awareness of scalp health's impact on hair health and overall well-being is driving consumer demand for scalp care products," she explains. "The demand for natural and plant-based ingredients, as well as products addressing specific scalp concerns such as dandruff or hair loss, continues to impact the market."

She notes that the skinification of the scalp will continue, with ingredients, claims and concepts mirroring skin care; such as the scalp's microbiome. "As consumers increasingly seek holistic well-being, the convergence of beauty, health and technology could shape the next wave of hair care ingredients, offering comprehensive solutions for hair and scalp concerns," she adds.

In terms of sustainability, the use of biodegradable and responsibly sourced ingredients will likely gain prominence. "A convergence of innovative technologies and cutting-edge ingredients is expected to drive the future of hair care toward more effective and sustainable solutions in the future." She also highlights technologies such as artificial intelligence, bioinformatics or molecular docking as potentially playing a role in product development.

"For scalp care, ingredients addressing follicular stem cells, peptides or neurocosmetics may be leveraged for their regenerative or calming properties," she writes. "Microbiome-friendly ingredients targeting the scalp microbiome such as [Ashland's] sclareance biofunctional (INCI: Sclateolide) might become more prevalent to maintain a healthy scalp ecosystem."

Finally, she underscores how advances in extraction methods for natural ingredients may contribute to both efficacy and environmental consciousness.

Conclusion

Holistic health is the name of the game in today’s market for scalp and hair care products – with future sights set on efficacy data transparency, biotech innovations, microbiome care and sustainability, among others.

References

1. Van Paris, C. (2024, Jan 4). 5 Hair trends to look for in 2024, according to the experts. Vogue. Available at https://www.vogue.com/article/hair-trends-2024

2. Gonçalves, S. and Gaivão, I. (2024, Jan). Revitalizing the hair ends: Formulation and evaluation of the elderflower (Sambucus nigra) hair mask for enhanced hair health. Our Dermatol Online. Available at http://tinyurl.com/5xvj8kfz

3. Hirai, T., Ikeda-Imafuku, M., ... Ishima, Y., et al. (2024, Apr). Human hair keratin responds to oxidative stress via reactive sulfur and supersulfides. Advances in Redox Research. Available at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667137923000310

4. Di Foggia, M., Taddei, P., Boga, C., Nocentini, B. and Micheletti, G. (2024). Interactions between damaged hair keratin and juglone as a possible restoring agent: A vibrational and scanning electron microscopy study. Molecules. Available at https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/29/2/320

5. Boira, C., Essendoubi, M., ... Reynaud, R., et al. (2024, Jan 17). Hyaluronic acid: Elucidating its penetration into, and effect on hair fibers using confocal Raman spectroscopy and biometric techniques. Preprints. Available at https://www.preprints.org/manuscript/202401.1325/v1

6. Rangsimawong, W., Duangjit, S., Samseethong, T., Tansathien, K., Ngawhirunpat, T. and Opanasopit, P. (2024 Jan). Novel approach for hair growth stimulation by deer antler velvet extract-loaded nano-chitosomes and micro-spicule formulation. J Drug Delivery Sci and Tech. Available at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1773224723010468