How quickly is the beauty industry swapping out ingredients that some flag as “problematic”? It depends.
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How quickly is the beauty industry swapping out ingredients that some flag as “problematic”? It depends.
For instance, a Kline + Company reporta noted that, while cyclic silicones are generally being “formulated out of skin care,” their performance has made them more difficult to replace in AP/deo applications. The report concludes that, “Despite sustainable and 2030 agendas and targets, the industry has been looking at costs first, resulting in a slower replacement [of 'problematic' ingredients] than previously expected.”
Clean and sustainable ingredient swaps have been slowed in some cases by cost and supply factors, as well as consumer preference on performance.Екатерина Клищевник at Adobe Stock
That said, microplastics and traceability regulations, along with negative consumer attitudes toward some synthetic materials, will still generally push the industry toward so-called “clean” and sustainable alternatives over the long term.
The push toward vegan products can also have roadblocks. Around the time of the Kline report’s release, Glossier delighted and infuriated its customers (depending who you asked) by bringing back the original, non-vegan Balm Dot Com formulation. The move was due to popular demand.
In February 2023, Glossier had announced that its popular balm was going vegan, featuring castor jelly, synthetic beeswax, shea butter and safflower oil. In reverting to its original formula (which remains cruelty-free), the brand brought back sheep’s wool-derived lanolin and natural beeswax (as well as castor oil), proving that emollients truly do matter.
While some commenters on Instagram shared sentiments such as “sad day for Glossier and the animal community,” there was strong support for the switch, with one poster noting, “GOOD. Because I just tossed all my nasty vegan ones.”
Ultimately, this switch came down to performance; Glossier consumers don’t appear hostile to vegan formulas, per se, but they demand the sensory attributes they expect without concessions.
At the 2024 NYSCC Suppliers' Day event, Symrise recently highlighted “Elevated Efficacy” that paired safe, sustainable ingredients with heightened efficacy profiles.
At the 2024 NYSCC Suppliers' Day event, Symrise recently highlighted this evolution with a focus on “Elevated Efficacy” that paired safe, sustainable ingredients with heightened efficacy profiles.
Focused on “supercharged ingredients … backed by clinical testing” and an overall “science-first approach to skin care,” the company presented concepts highlighting a trio of on-trend materials.
These included SymCalmin Avena (INCI: maltodextrin (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract), which reduces redness and itchiness in just minutes, and HydroViton Insta (Cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract (and) pentylene glycol (and) sodium benzoate (and) lactic acid), which offers a no-needle hydration “tweakment” for fresh, dewy skin and a boosted skin barrier (via boosted filaggrin production). The multi-level moisturizer reportedly improves cell renewal while enhancing natural moisturizing factors. It also is said to enhance production of hyaluronic acid .
New Clean & Sustainable Ingredient Swaps
Despite any headwinds for the evolution of the beauty industry’s palette and formulations, a wide range of suppliers have launched alternatives to a number of conventional technologies—many with unique or enhanced functionality and efficacy.
Amazonian Film Former & Silicone Alternative
Apoena Biotech’s Apobio Film is a multifunctional, biofilm-forming postbiotic product with moisturizing/TEWL-preventing properties for hair and skin care.
On hair, the technology forms a protective film on the hair surface, as shown in SEM-FEG images (featured here), which retains moisture within the hair, prolonging hydration and preventing dryness.
On hair, Apoena Biotech's technology forms a protective film on the hair surface, as shown in SEM-FEG images (featured here), which retains moisture within the hair, prolonging hydration and preventing dryness.Apoena Biotech
According to Apoena Biotech, Apobio Film boosts anti-drying efficacy by 30% compared to a control group. This silicone-like effect, however, also manages to avoid buildup.
On the skin, Apobio Film protects the skin’s barrier, boosts water retention within cells and provides instant hydration, per the company.
One study found that the ingredient boosted hydration by 58% and cut skin water loss by 15%. The result is immediate substantial hydration that lasts as much as 72 hours, per the company.
Apobio Film also reduces oiliness via a 66.7% reduction in the expression of the enzyme 5-α-reductase.
The ingredient is initially being launched in the U.S. and European markets, with an introduction in South America and beyond to follow.
A Gentle Retinol Alternative
Sabinsa’s latest skin care ingredient, Babchiol (INCI: bakuchiol) is extracted from Psoralea corylifolia and acts as a gentle retinol alternative, offering the same anti-aging benefits without the risk of adverse effects. The company, which debuted the product at the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day in May 2024, is standardized for a minimum of 99% bakuchiol, per Sabinsa.
A Silky-smooth Biodegradable Polymer
Ingredion’s Farmal AF 1100 is a non-GMO, aluminum-free modified starch offering a silky smooth, dry-to-the-touch finish to a range of formulations. Its benefits include increased viscosity and emulsion stability, light-scattering effects for soft-focus finishes, oil absorption for reduced tackiness and greasiness, and enhanced pigment dispersion. The technology is a derived natural material per ISO 16128 and is applicable in sunscreens, deodorants, lotions, dry shampoo, color cosmetics and aerosolized products.
Silicone Alternative Emollient
Recently, Roelmi HPC has expanded its emollient offerings with the EMotion range, which features sensory and performance benefits, as well as sustainable credentials.
Among its offerings is the Ultra-light EMotion Air, which reportedly functions as a silicone alternative. It features a light touch, long playtime and high spreadability, per Roelmi HPC, functioning similarly to cyclopentasiloxane. The emollient is recommended for hair care and other cosmetic categories.
The range also includes:
- The nourishing EMotion Glow, upcycled from olive oil fractions, provides non-sticky textures and functions as a dispersant for makeup.
- The biomimetic EMotion Skin comprises triglycerides and diglycerides upcycled from olive oil by-products. Critically, it helps active ingredients absorb efficiently into the epidermis layer.
- EMotion Light, meanwhile, is derived from green chemistry processes, per the company, offering a dry and light touch as well as good solubilization of organic UV filters. It can also disperse pigments for matte effects in makeup.
- The EMotion Silky, also obtained by green chemistry processes, features a velvet touch and high spreadability while also offering strong solubility for organic UV filters. In makeup, it reportedly imparts a soft and silky after-feel.
Biotech Surfactant Alternative
NatraFusion SL HA can be used as a co-surfactant to deliver synergistic mildness and cleanse-boosting benefits with no detrimental impact on foam production, per Croda.LIGHTFIELD STUDIOS at Adobe Stock
The ingredient technology can be used as a co-surfactant to deliver synergistic mildness and cleanse-boosting benefits with no detrimental impact on foam production, per Croda.
During Suppliers' Day 2024, Croda presented a gentle facial cleansing gel concept ingredient featuring NatraFusion SL HA. The low-foam gel was formulated to cleanse the skin gently and effectively.
Nature-inspired Biodegradable Pigments & Glitters
Cambridge-based Sparxell is using industrial machinery and plant-based cellulose to replicate the vibrant colors found in nature.
The company accomplishes these features by mimicking the effects of the arrangements of cellulose chains in, for instance, the cell walls of fruits. The company is now developing these plant-based, biodegradable colors on a commercial scale.
By manipulating the microscopic structural textures of cellulose, the company is producing brilliantly shiny plastic-, titania- and mica-free materials, including pigment powders, pearls and glitter in a range of colors and sizes.
Applicable in personal care and cosmetics formulations, these ingredients “have highly reflective photonic properties,” per the company, which can “reflect striking structural colors that are fade-resistant” and which are applicable in the “same contexts as conventional pigments, glitters and sequins.”
Biodegradable Polymer Alternative
Lygos, Inc.’s Soltellus line of biodegradable, multifunctional, customizable and sustainable polymers for hair and skin care formulations debuted at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in May 2024. The range offers alternatives to non-biodegradable polymers used in current personal care formulations.
In hair care, Soltellus polymers can enhance softness, smoothness, shine and wet compatibility, producing healthier and moisturized-looking hair, per the company.
In skin care, as a co-surfactant, they ensure a stable, rich, creamy foam and lather that’s easy to spread, per Lygos, resulting in a deeper, more thorough removal of dirt, oil and impurities.
As an emulsifier, the polymers can improve user experience with a smoother application and luxurious after-feel, preserving formulation quality while leaving skin hydrated without any residue, per the company.
An Enhanced Talc Replacement
This cellulose acetate-based powder has worldwide regulatory approval, per the company, and can be applied in pressed and loose powders, color cosmetics, hot pours, and emulsion systems.
Per Micro Powders, 100% of 15 participants taking part in a blind test claimed to prefer the feel of Naturecel 793 over talc.
Biodegradable Surfactant Thickener for Mass Beauty
Offering a luxury effect in formulations, Applechem's Stellathix is reportedly 10 times more potent than conventional mass market shampoo thickeners.Applechem
Offering a luxury effect in formulations, Stellathix is reportedly 10 times more potent than conventional mass market shampoo thickeners.
It also has 10-15x more thickening efficiency compared to common low-cost thickeners, per Applechem, and 2x or 3x more powerful than advanced non-ionic thickeners used in challenging sulfate-free surfactant systems.
Notably, Stellathix reportedly maintains cleansing formulations’ stability even when adding challenging ingredients. Furthermore, it is classified as Ultimately Biodegradable per ISO 14851 standards, nor is it considered a microplastic according to new EU environmental regulations.
Clean Beauty Friendly Exfoliants
Micro Powders' Naturebead White H20 is a spherical 20-mesh white exfoliant that can add a visual cue or gentle exfoliation in formulations, per the supplier. The ingredient comprises only hydrogenated castor oil, providing a clean-beauty-friendly INCI without any added pigments, dyes or synthetic colorants.
Naturescrub H80, meanwhile, is a naturally derived irregular exfoliant based on sustainable SuCCESS hydrogenated castor oil. This 80-mesh scrub is reportedly optimal for facial, lip and other sensitive areas targeted for exfoliation.
New Ingredient Innovations
Beyond clean and high-functioning swaps, ingredient suppliers recently launched new technologies at in-cosmetics Global in Paris and NYSCC's Suppliers' Day in New York.
Multifunctional, Multisensory Sun Care
DSM-Firmenich's recent sun care concepts included the pineapple-scented Sun & Fun.dsm-firmenich
Among the formulations was the Fresh Sun Lotion Cooling Effect Fluid Lotion 50+, featuring hydrating Pentavitin and cooling via a combination of DSM-Firmenich’s Seaside Oxygen Infusion fragrance and FreezeBlast technology. The lotion also featured a complex of five of the company’s Parsol UV filters.
DSM-Firmenich also developed the Green Sun—High Protection Fluid Lotion SPF 50+ featuring the Parsol complex plus Pentavitin, skin barrier defending Alpaflor Edelweiss CB, complexion illuminating Tilamar PDO and Nøøvista, a preservative booster, skin humectant, sensory enhancer, solvent and actives carrier.
DSM-Firmenich’s Fresh Sun Lotion Cooling Effect Fluid Lotion 50+ featured cooling via a combination of its Seaside Oxygen Infusion fragrance and FreezeBlast technology.dsm-firmenich
Other formulations included the pineapple-scented Sun & Fun—Fluid Lotion SPF 50+, the Dreamwood-scented Sensual Glow Skin—Shimmer Effect Fluid Lotion 50+ (with a sandalwood-like odor), the Urban Relax—UV Shield Stick SPF30 and the Relaxing Day Care Cream Minimalistic SPF 30 (featuring three rather than five UV filters).
Itch-free Gentle Skin Care
Solabia’s Serenibiome (propanediol (and) glycolipids) is designed to offer gentle care for sensitive atopic-prone skin.9nong
The technology, which won the NYSCC Suppliers' Day Ingredient Maverick Award for ingredient innovation, is based on a biofermentation of Pseudozyma flocculosa fungus, yielding flocculosin, an antifungal that repairs skin sensitivityb.
The Serenibiome active ingredient “tackles the itch-scratch vicious cycle,” per Solabia. In clinical tests, Serenibiome reportedly reduced skin redness, dryness and itching sensations.
The technology accomplishes these outcomes by bioselectively inhibiting the growth of pathogenic Staphylococcus aureus, which induces skin dysbiosis, leading to atopic skin. Notably, this inhibition in no way negatively impacts the more beneficial Staphylococcus epidermidis population on the skin, per Solabia.
The technology also reduces pro-inflammatory markers involved in nociception, or the transmission of unpleasant sensations, and synthesizing well-being molecules to help sooth itching sensations. Serenibiome also accelerates the re-epithelialization process for barrier regeneration/repair.
Taken together, the Ecocert Greenlife and COSMOS-compliant ingredient is reportedly ideal for sensitive skin care, dry skin solutions, face and body care generally, atopic-prone skin solutions, and baby care.
Next-level Ceramides
Biofermented ceramides: Croda's SphingoCare range of biofermented ceramides are designed to be formulated into lotions, cosmetics and hair care products.
These fatty acids support skin barrier function, protecting the skin and scalp from dryness and germs, per Croda.
In skin and hair care applications, SphingoCare ceramides can reportedly support claims that address issues such as skin aging/hydration, scalp well-being, skin soothing, environmental protection, lip care, microbiome balance and hair cuticle repair.
The SphingoCare range is primarily biotechnology- and plant-derived (plant and yeast fermentation) and are available as high purity level, pre-dispersion or biomimetic blends.
Biomimetic ceramides: Syensqo has acquired South Korean biotech-derived biomimetic ceramides-specialist JinYoung Bio to boost its renewable skin care and hair care specialties.
JinYoung Bio also features biobased functional ingredients for skin care and color cosmetic applications.
“This acquisition reflects our deep commitment to innovation and our focus on sustainable solutions leveraging the power of biotechnology,” said Ilham Kadri, CEO of Syensqo. "We are dedicated to making a meaningful impact in the beauty industry, addressing critical environmental and societal challenges with groundbreaking circular solutions.”
“Our aim is to provide our customers with advanced skin care solutions that harness the natural power of specialty ingredients like ceramides,” said Michael Radossich, president of the consumer and resources division at Syensqo. “This investment puts Syensqo at the forefront of leveraging the dynamic nature of ceramides, a hero ingredient in cosmetic products including the fast-growing dermocosmetics.”
Gentle Solutions for Acne Care
Acne is a perennial consumer concern. So is sensitive skin.
It’s no surprise, then, that Spatec recently reported that TikTok views for hypochlorous acid content recently grew 192.3% over the period of one quarter (as of May 2024). Ideal for acne-prone skin and other skin issues, “TikTok views for hypochlorous acid follows the growth for the ingredient on search, revealing that the consumer’s interest of hypochlorous acid does not originally stem from a viral video.”
A number of ingredient firms are approaching the gentle acne care space with novel materials.okrasiuk at Adobe Stock
The technology reduces sebum synthesis and quantity while diminishing pore size and pore obstructions. At the same time, it minimizes bacterial porphyrins and (not coincidentally) C. acnes-induced inflammation, per LipoTrue.
In vivo testing of SP[AI]3 has uncovered rapid results for quickly purified skin. Per data cited by the supplier, use of the ingredient cut sebum by 39% in seven days, pimples by 19% in 14 days and pore size by 8% in 28 days.
Elsewhere in acne care, TRI-K Industries Inc.’s TRICare CG is a solvent-free multifunctional ingredient derived from amino acids and fatty acids that regulates sebum production to address excess shine and oiliness while also minimizing the appearance of skin redness and pore size.
The gentle technology also counteracts acne- and dandruff-causing organisms for a more skin-friendly microbiome.
Furthermore, TRICare CG can be used in place of conventional preservative systems in rinse-off and leave-on formulations, per the supplier.
Biotech K2 for Skin Defense & Repair
Sino Lion Group’s BioEssence (K2) MK-7 (menaquinone-7) is a biotech-derived all-trans functional vitamin K2 approved for use in markets such as China. In topical applications, the ingredient technology can protect cells from oxidative damage and thereby prevent UV and inflammatory damage by inhibiting overexpression of kallikrein 5 activity; reduce the peroxidation of lipids and improve cell viability under peroxidative stress; scavenge excess free radicals; strengthen and repair the skin barrier; and more.
Inclusive Skin Care-Makeup Hybrids
As Global Cosmetic Industry magazine has previously reported, there is an increasing focus on hybrid makeup-skin care products that pair color with care. As some color-focused brands have found out the hard way, insufficiently inclusive shade ranges can become a brand nightmare.
Spectra Colors Corp. helps brands with their product shade ranges, in part by offering inorganic iron oxides. Inclusive shade ranges for tinted skin care and hybrid formulations will require iron oxides such as Spectra Colors’ Iron Oxide Light Brown (3.IO.0010NK) and Iron Oxide Brown AV627 (3.IO.V62700). The tones can be applied in everything from foundations and lip formulations to lotions and creams.
Where is Beauty Biotech Going?
Way back in 2019, Mintel notedd, “As lab-grown products continue to enter the market, consumers’ comfort with biotechnology will increase.” Indeed, since that time, a wide array of biotech-driven beauty ingredient innovation has flooded into the market, including many technologies profiled in this very trend report. Looking ahead, many new, unique tech is set to expand biotech’s impact on beauty even further.
In April 2024, Sweden-based Melt&Marble attended in-cosmetics Global in Paris. Though the company had not yet launched a beauty industry ingredient, the firm took the opportunity to build buzz around its technical capabilities in using precision fermentation to develop specialty fats.
These designer fats and lipid molecules will have many uses in beauty and personal care, according to the company, which has also delivered fats to the food industry. The company plans to debut its first beauty-centric material in the first half of 2025, per the company.
This specialty fat, intended for skin care applications, will have a melting profile and functionality similar to beef fat, thereby serving as a functional substitute to both animal- and plant-based fats. Solid at room temperature, the material will melt at skin temperature and offer bio-active fatty acids with skin benefits such as anti-inflammatory activity, wrinkle formation reduction and hydration and repair.
According to Melt&Marble the technology may be used as a thickener, hydrator and/or texturizing agent in creams, lotions and lip balms. Furthermore, because the material is produced via precision fermentation, its sourcing has no links to deforestation.
Hydrosome Labs has developed a new technology that can double precision fermentation yields and decrease production time by up to 25%.Hydrosome Labs
In effect, the company argues it can make beauty and personal care ingredients that are more affordable, effective (such as skin care materials with improved nutrient uptake) and sustainable than conventionally produced materials.
According to Hydrosome Labs, ultrafine bubbles "enhance the delivery of active ingredients," leading to better resulting materials while cutting down on the need for penetrating agents and other extraneous materials in the production process.
Specifically, these bubbles "increase cellular growth, overall biomass and target molecule titers," per the company. "This leads to more efficient operational processes that minimize resource consumption and produce more affordable products for consumers."
"It’s truly exciting to see how easily the ultrafine bubbles produced by Hydrosome’s technology integrated into our pilot scale reactors and showed immediate benefit to microbial growth,” said Brian Jacobson, associate director of strategic operation at the Integrated Bioprocessing Research Laboratory (IBRL) at the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign. “While there have been significant advances in synthetic biology resulting in a tremendous number of new products capable of being made through fermentation, we have seen very little innovation in the fermentation process or equipment to assist in scaling these discoveries. This technology has the potential to positively impact the economics of new products in a wide range of industries and can also be applied to existing processes or retrofit last generation fermentation equipment currently unsuitable for these new products."
Paul Gadbut, CEO of Hydrosome Labs, called the use of ultrafine bubbles as “a win for manufacturers, consumers and investors alike.”
High-naturality Polymer with a Light Touch
SNF’s Natursol EMI Lite is a rheology modifier that combines a light texture and stabilizing performance. It also features a naturality index of 78%.
As part of SNF’s inverse emulsion polymer portfolio, Natursol EMI Lite is cold-processable, leading to diminished CO2 emissions and processing times.
Its biodegradability, meanwhile, has reportedly been confirmed via OECD 301F testing.
Wood Pulp-derived Cellulose for Silky Beauty Effects
Nordic Bioproducts Group has opened a new production site for the commercial-scale development (10,000 tons/annually) of microcrystalline cellulose and other cellulose-derived materials in Lappeenranta, Finland.
Microcrystalline cellulose can boost the volume and stability of skin care and other beauty applications, while also lending them a silky effect.Nordic Bioproducts Group
The facility comprises the company's AaltoCell Technology, which reportedly uses 69% fewer chemicals, 90% less energy and 95% less water than typically applied in the production of microcrystalline cellulose.
According to an official announcement, an independent third-party study found that "the process achieves a significant 81% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions compared to traditional methods."
Microcrystalline cellulose can boost the volume and stability of skin care and other beauty applications, while also lending them a silky effect.
The biodegradable material leverages FSC-certified forest material and is reportedly non-allergenic.
Microcrystalline cellulose also has applications in concrete, bioplastics and much more.
FOOTNOTE
bwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1068648/
dwww.mintel.com/press-centre/mintel-announces-global-beauty-and-personal-care-trends-for-2030/
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