How Clean Beauty has Evolved — And Why We Should Define It

What comes to mind when you read the term clean beauty? Wellness and safety? Sustainability? (Misinformation?) This concept has had its 15 min of fame, especially in recent years, and has saturated the canvas of our industry in various shades; from transparent and sustainable, to nontoxic, safe, free-from, climate friendly and more.

"Many people might assume that the clean beauty trend is a recent phenomenon, but while delving into this topic, I was surprised to discover that elements of this trend have roots that extend far back in time, gradually evolving as an integral part of our society."Image by Goncharuk film at Adobe Stock

Due to this ambiguity, Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) has in fact steered clear of this term wherever possible when it is not accompanied by a qualifier. Indeed, as one Bloomberg Law reporter wrote,¹ "...[C]ompanies’ self-imposed definitions of what they consider to be 'clean' has led to doubts about industry claims, fueling consumer-led class actions and raising the legal risk for companies trying to capitalize on product demand. "So while according to Statista, the clean beauty market is projected to reach US $15.3 billion by 2028, manufacturers targeting this segment may be taking a gamble that the products they put forth align with consumer expectations.

Exploring this evolution in clean beauty — and also identifying a need for its regulation — Marta Gonçalves, Ph.D. (MG), a postdoctoral researcher at Sungkyunkwan University, South Korea, wrote about it for the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists' (IFSCC's) 2023 Maison G. DeNavarre young scientist essay prize — and won. Following, she shares insights and views on her findings.

C&T: Please provide a brief overview of your award-winning paper.

MG: The Maison G. DeNavarre prize offers predefined topics from which scientists can choose to write an essay. From last year’s topics, I decided to go with the “consumer’s interest in 'clean and natural' products” topic and wrote the paper entitled: “Evolution of Clean Beauty: Exploring the Past, Present and Future.”

In this work, I researched the origin of the clean beauty trend and traced its progression throughout history up to the present day. Many people might assume that the clean beauty trend is a recent phenomenon, but while delving into this topic, I was surprised to discover that elements of this trend have roots that extend far back in time, gradually evolving as an integral part of our society.

The main point I aimed to emphasize throughout the essay is that the clean beauty trend is a topic that generates significant controversy among consumers and experts in the cosmetic field, including researchers and medical personnel. Therefore, the key takeaway is the urgency of establishing appropriate regulations that can guide both companies and consumers in the right direction toward safe and conscious product consumption, avoiding unsupervised and ambiguous labeling of cosmetic products.

C&T: Where does the industry stand in terms of clean beauty? Is it still relevant? Has it evolved?

MG: The clean beauty market stands out as one of the fastest-growing sectors within the personal care industry, therefore its relevance is undeniable. According to Brand Essence, a market research company, in 2021 the clean beauty market was valued at US $6.46 billion, and it is projected to reach US $5.29 billion by 2028. This forecast indeed shows the prevailing trend of the entire industry heading in the direction of clean beauty.

Any reader of this magazine would easily find clean beauty-labeled products in their home, whether they knowingly bought them or not. Its evolution through time is, in my opinion, a reflection of consumers’ concerns. In the 1970s, during the early stages of the clean beauty timeline, health concerns were the main motivation behind developing "safer” formulations and including disclaimers in the packaging. With time, we saw a shift, where newly founded companies in the 1980s and 1990s started to introduce natural products to the mainstream consumer — more based on holistic practices and care for the environment.

Clean beauty eventually was seen as a lifestyle, where companies promoted beauty products that don’t compromise health by creating the so-called lists of dirty ingredients while also advocating for sustainable, eco-friendly and cruelty-free products. It seems complex because it is indeed a very intricate concept. Clean beauty is an umbrella term for a wide range of concepts that ultimately lands on an "undefined idea of purity," as James Hamblin wrote in his recent book.

The key takeaway is the urgency of establishing appropriate regulations that can guide both companies and consumers in the right direction toward safe and conscious product consumption, avoiding unsupervised and ambiguous labeling of cosmetic products.Image by Summit Art Creations at Adobe Stock

C&T: Is it time we adopted a new name for clean beauty? And what would that be?

MG: That is a very good yet difficult question. In my opinion, I think that clean beauty might not need a new name, but it desperately needs a proper, industry-wide and regulated definition. Clean beauty is a very general term that can go from non-toxic, to organic, to natural, to green, to sustainable, to cruelty-free, to vegan just based on what each company defines as the criteria to be labeled as such.

With such a large lexicon, I believe we might need less names at this point if I’m very honest! Interestingly, recently I’ve seen the rise of the term cleanical beauty that combines clean and clinical as a way to join forces between clean beauty with extensive scientific research to ensure safety and improve product performance and efficacy. Could that the be future? I look forward to it!

C&T: Where do you think consumers stand in terms of clean beauty? What do they expect of these products?

MG: What consumers expect from clean beauty will always be closely tied to what they consider to be clean beauty products — and what they value in the products they consume. Some might be more concerned about the ingredients while others might be more cautious about the environmental impact of such products. Since the definition is too wide, companies may take advantage of the labeling, leaving consumers often confused about the products in the market.

Above all, I think that through the clean beauty trend, consumers look forward to transparency in the cosmetic industry. As consumers become increasingly environmentally conscious and more aware of potentially harmful ingredients in cosmetic formulations, they will consistently expect companies to meet higher standards by enhancing research methods transparently and embracing sustainability and safety.

I also want to urge the need to stop the overwhelming fearmongering and chemophobia of “natural is safer” mentalities that are often seen in social media and the “greenwashing” practices that exploit consumer’s fears and concerns. In this context, knowledge is power, emphasizing the importance of transparency and education as vital tools for companies to safeguard their claims and serve the best interests of consumers.

C&T: How have social media and retailers influenced clean beauty?

MG: Without a doubt, the social media and the marketing strategies of cosmetic companies and retailers greatly shaped clean beauty as we know it today. Millennials and GenZ'ers are the driving force behind the growth of clean beauty, a demographic characterized by their heavy online presence. In platforms such as Instagram or TikTok, consumers are constantly exposed to reviews from other consumers and the opinions of influencers that are many times a form of social media-mediated marketing.

The overwhelming amount of information, often of questionable credibility, gives easy access for consumers to be constantly informed about new trends, which works wonders for the spread of any trend, including clean beauty. While we see an increased number of side-by-side posts that advocate for clean lifestyles with clean product reviews and tips on how to live cleaner, there is also a growing number of cosmetic scientist and dermatologists that take advantage of social media to [raise] alert to many of the misconceptions shared online, trying to demystify clean beauty allegations and undo the demonization of certain ingredients that comes from misrepresentation of medical literature taken out of context.

Retailers naturally follow the trend and try to cater to the interests of consumers. We see big retailers such as Sephora and Olive Young (South Korea's #1 Health and Beauty Store) creating their own distinct lists of what ingredients are toxic and which qualify as clean, and labeling the products accordingly to guide the consumers purchase experience.

C&T: You' mentioned regulation — do you see clean beauty or specific aspects of it actually becoming regulated? Why or why not?

I truly believe that demystifying clean beauty is in everyone’s best interest. We should protect the consumer’s rights to truthful information and safe products that target their values (e.g. cruelty-free, vegan, sustainable, etc.) while also backing up companies on their claims and efforts to create better formulations. The issue really comes from both sides, with unreasonable demands of the consumers to remove ingredients without any evidence to sustain such concerns and companies that use and abuse unregulated clean labeling on the products often charging the price of luxury in exchange for "safety.”

However, clean products are the standard expected from consumers, so the lack of industry-wide regulations is alarming, which is leaving the manufacturers and retailers to self-regulate when bigger regulatory agencies should have that authority. I believe that some actions are indirectly being taken toward clean beauty regulation, such as the 2022 Modernization of Cosmetic Regulation Act and the Structured Product Labeling (SPL) Implementation Guide, so I’m hopeful that with the growing interest in clean beauty, a more systematic program is on the way to being implemented. In the meantime, agencies like the U.S. Food and Drug Administration could make a move in creating educational content to guide consumers, while brands and retailers should commit to transparency about clean claims.

C&T: What future direction(s) will clean beauty take? Where are the opportunities?

MG: Clean beauty is here to stay, as consumers become increasingly environmentally conscious and more aware of potentially harmful ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Brands that choose not to align with this trend may face backlash for appearing outdated and may witness a decrease in interest from the general consumer.

I believe that the clean beauty trend brings advantages by promoting transparency in the cosmetic industry, allowing consumers to make informed decisions knowing exactly what ingredients are being used and what suits their skin best. Despite the disadvantages, rooted in the absence of proper regulatory guidelines, the fact that companies are becoming more conscious about environmental sustainability, ethical guidelines and the need to replace certain potentially harmful ingredients leads to increased research and an overall enhancement of the cosmetic industry.

I think clean beauty will always be a spectrum within all its definitions, so if properly regulated, consumers will be able to align their priorities and needs with brands that advocate for the same values.

Reference

1. Hudson, C. (2023, Dec 5). Retailers' clean beauty claims fuel consumer doubts and lawsuits. Bloomberg Law. Available at https://news.bloomberglaw.com/esg/retailers-clean-beauty-claims-fuel-consumer-doubts-and-lawsuits