Which Cosmetic Actives Will Come Out on Top at the 2024 C&T Allēs?

Which active ingredients will win C&T Allē Awards in 2024? Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner, to be held on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in Los Angeles – alongside our captivating Beauty Accelerate event. Active ingredients are defined here as those incorporated into a formula for their specific biological activities. Following are the contenders...

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Activen SA – XEP-716 Miniprotein

XEP-716 miniprotein is a first-in-class mimetic mini growth factor, able to unleash TGF-β pleiotropic effects. XEP-716 miniprotein triggers matrix regeneration (collagen, HA, elastin), dermo-epidermal junction strengthening, orchestrates the beneficial activity of other skin cells, and induces fibroblasts differentiation and rejuvenation. In vivo studies showed XEP-716 miniprotein imparts high rejuvenating activity with visible results after only two weeks. After 28 days, XEP-716 significantly improves dermal density (+31% vs T0), skin elasticity (+37% vs T0) and wrinkles. XEP-716 can penetrate the skin thanks to its smaller size and its 3D folded structure. Highly specific, XEP-716 shows no off-target toxicity.

Algaktiv – Algaktiv Collage

Algaktiv Collage is a revolutionary active ingredient in skin care innovation, derived from upcycled microalgae. Sourced from the resilient extremophile Hematococcus pluvialis, cultivated in Iceland using renewable geothermal energy, Algaktiv Collage harnesses vegan collagen peptides and spermidine to promote skin firmness and elasticity. It addresses the demand for natural and sustainable alternatives by delivering exceptional results. Clinical studies demonstrate its ability to visibly boost collagen production, improve hydration and reduce wrinkles, both short term (10 min) and long term (28 days). Certified by COSMOS, Algaktiv Collage is vegan, GMO-free and environmentally responsible, showcasing a paradigm shift in sustainable biotechnology, catering to conscious consumers seeking effective skin care solutions.

Arcaea – ScentARC

Traditional ways of managing odor involve blocking sweat, antibacterial activity or masking smells. These approaches have also reinforced a sense of shame around malodor. Arcaea sees odor as something biological rather than chemical. Advances in bioinformatics, the skin microbiome and screening methods exist today that we view as new tools to create better solutions. ScentARC is the first launch in a portfolio of actives focused on creating new technologies to biologically shift scent in a natural yet precise fashion. ScentARC technology, developed via high throughput screening and machine learning, is a precise prebiotic nutrient blend that impacts underarm microbes, shifting odor profile by selectively preventing the body’s production of odorous compounds without antimicrobials or masking smells.

Bio-az Pty. Ltd. – Bio-az Cosmeceutical Synbiotic

Bio-az Cosmeceutical Synbiotic is a groundbreaking multifunctional synbiotic blend, merging live probiotic, prebiotics, postbiotics and plant-based anti-inflammatory elements into a single dynamic solution for the skin and gut. Years of collaboration with microbiologists, practitioners and skin care enthusiasts have birthed this innovation. Crafted for both topical and oral use, the Bio-az Cosmeceutical Synbiotic ingredient provides optimization designed to fortify and rebalance the skin's microbiome. Its multifunctional prowess lies in its microbiome-modulation capabilities, guiding the skin and gut toward balance and a natural healthy profile.

Clariant Production France – Rootness Mood+

Rootness Mood+ is a natural active ingredient that mimics the positive effects of sunlight on skin. It is obtained from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis, also known as great burnet. It is cultivated in aeroponic conditions, through a patented Plant Milking technology. This is a traceable and eco-friendly process. Rich in tormentic acid derivatives, Rootness Mood+ reproduces the skin’s benefits from light to revitalize skin and enhance mood. It triggers skin’s photoreceptors, boosts Vitamin D effects and stimulates production of well-being molecules: serotonin and melatonin. Rootness Mood+ brings a ray of light to the skin without the need for sun exposure.

dsm-firmenich – Pepha-Tight CB

Pepha-Tight CB is a unique, naturally derived and renewable biotech marine algae ingredient that has proven efficacy in delivering both a fast and instant-tightening experience and a superior long-term skin firming effect. Derived from Nannochloropsis oculata microalgae and a high-performing polysaccharide, it forms a thin film on skin, exerting an instant perceptible tightening effect. It acts as a protective shield against oxidative stress and helps to stimulate the formation of collagen I, an essential part of the skin’s connective tissue. Pepha-Tight CB is halal certified, 100% naturally derived (or 100% of natural origin) and COSMOS approved.

Evonik Corp. – BeautiFerm Healerine

BeautiFerm Healerine is an ingredient obtained from fermentation of the reishi mushroom, which has a long tradition of use in Asian countries for its healing properties. Through the fermentation process, bioactive metabolites of this adaptogenic mushroom extract are made available that support biological pathways related to cellular proliferation and migration. Over time, this is supportive of skin regeneration that leads to younger-looking skin. In addition, this natural ingredient has been found to accelerate skin barrier recovery after disruption, and to balance the slow-down in skin renewal due to aging.

Evonik Corp. – Sphinox Immulance

Sphinox Immulance ceramide NP trains the skin to defend itself by strengthening the skin’s immune barrier and promoting skin’s own resilience. This innovative and unique bioactive ceramide is based on an uneven fatty acid side chain, which boosts antimicrobial defense mechanisms by the induction of anti-microbial peptides. It calms down skin’s stress response, providing soothing effects for overreactive skin and reducing redness in stressed and dry skin. Sphinox Immulance is the perfect solution for dry, atopic-prone and uncomfortable skin.

Givaudan Active Beauty – RetiLife 100% Natural Origin Retinol

RetiLife is a breakthrough evolution for the cosmetic industry. This new active ingredient is the first 100% natural-origin retinol, creating a sustainable solution to replace chemically synthesized retinol. This sustainable and 100% natural-origin alternative to synthetic retinol avoids controversial ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate. RetiLife is produced via fermentation from plant sugars in a natural carrier (sunflower oil) and with a natural preservative system (tocopherol and rosemary extract) to ensure its protection, even at a very high concentration. This active has the same biological efficacy as chemical benchmark (antioxidant and anti-aging benefits), with enhanced skin penetration and better bio-availability.

Greentech – Holobiosys

Holobiosys is a COSMOS-certified upcycled active ingredient obtained from organic wild yellow gentian roots and enhanced by fermentation with a rare bacteria from the aerobiome, Sphingomonas faeni. The ingredient is a next-gen moisturizer developed by a systemic method utilizing an innovative metaproteomic study. Holobiosys repairs conditions of dry and dehydrated skin via a boost of hyaluronic acid and skin lipid synthesis, increasing skin hydration after 28 days and smoothing wrinkles. It also protects hydrolipidic film with a lipid-replenishing effect. Holobiosys reinvigorates the skin holobiont, boosting the skin/microbiota interactions for deeply rehydrated and plumped skin.

H&H Group Co., Ltd. – Sadorfons

Sadorfons is a patented ingredient and organic and natural extract of soapnuts, which comes from the Himalayan mountains. H&H Group gathered almost 2,000 species of soapnuts from the Sapindaceae family worldwide and discovered the exceptional species known as Sapindus mukorossi in the pristine Himalayan region. H&H Group registered this oil on the INCI website, introducing it as a new ingredient. It contains an abundance of linoleic acid, plant sterols and eicosenoic acid, all derived from plants. These ingredients can relieve discomfort caused by dryness, such as itching and peeling, and relieve damaged skin while also working to prevent skin allergies, eczema and sensitive, rough and dry skin.

Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd. – Milltect

Milltect is a long-researched (for years) scientific innovation of Ichimaru Pharcos for the oral care field that inhibits biofilm formation (dental plaque) that causes oral infections such as dental caries and periodontal diseases. Coating the tooth surface to inhibit the adhesion of oral bacteria, it purposefully targets biofilm formation that until now, has not been cured by conventional oral care products that mainly focus on reducing oral pathogens. In addition, Milltect shows strong antibacterial synergy when used together with conventional antibacterial ingredients like CPC and IPMP. It also inhibits staining and bad breath caused by biofilm. The ingredient is naturally derived from Codium fragile.

Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd. – VeganProteoglycan

VeganProteoglycan is the latest technology from Ichimaru Pharcos based on the discovery of naturally derived plant-based soluble proteoglycan. It acts as an alternative to the proteoglycan obtained from animals for decades. Until now, mainly animal- or fish-derived proteoglycans have been used as skin care ingredients because proteoglycan is one of the most important components of the dermis. And, as a worldwide leading manufacturer of proteoglycan, Ichimaru Pharcos successfully pioneered obtaining natural plant-based proteoglycan from a sustainable resource: Anogeissus latifolia, known as ghatti tree. The ingredient is proven to promote the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and to increase collagen production in vitro. It also improves skin thickness, wrinkles and skin texture in vivo.

Industrial Technology Research Institute – I-Proteo

I-Proteo (Ananas sativus (pineapple) leaf powder), developed by Industrial Technology Research Institute, is a sustainable cosmetic raw material upcycled from local (Taiwan) agricultural waste created as a byproduct of processing pineapple. I-Proteo is a 100% natural, safe and stable ingredient the exhibits great oil control and anti-oxidation abilities.

Laboratoires Expanscience – Epionine Bio

Epionine Bio is the ultimate holistic active ingredient for skin and mind wellness. Extracted sustainably from Camellia oleifera seeds, this organic, lipo-soluble ingredient is rich in unsaponifiables (β-amyrine) and offers dual-action for global well-being. At the skin level, it defends against internal and external stressors while providing deep hydration and soothing relief for dry and sensitive skin (-12.5% TEWL, +25% corneometer), resulting in increased comfort and confidence in one’s skin. At the mind level, it reduces stress (-25.2% in keratinocytes cortisol), improves emotional state and boosts self-confidence for a better quality of life. Together, these benefits lead to relaxed skin and mind for an overall feeling of serenity.

LipoTrue – Poptide

Poptide is a cyclic peptide that modulates skintropy – the chaos present in our skin caused by aging and external factors. Aging is the main reason for endoplasmatic reticulum (ER) stress and a decrease in molecular chaperones, resulting in the appearance of misfolded proteins. Poptide has been proven to minimize misfolded proteins by increasing the main chaperones of the ER, and in turn the unfolded protein response. This results in breaking the Daily Wrinkles Cycle (i.e., where evening wrinkles are more pronounced than morning ones). In turn, Poptide is able to improve skin’s appearance, cycle by cycle. Featured product claims include: modulating skintropy, refolding proteins and breaking the Daily Wrinkles Cycle.

LipoTrue – V/WA

Innovation can emerge from ingredients’ mechanisms of action, origin or even the technology used to obtain them. But what if a new microorganism is discovered altogether? V/WA is a fully vertically integrated product obtained from the fermentation of a newly identified strain, Alteromonas lipotrueae, that was first collected from the surface of the most stinging jellyfish in the Mediterranean, Pelagia noctiluca. V/WA has been shown to modulate several steps in neuron-muscle communication, helping to relax both static and dynamic wrinkles. The ingredients is halal-, COSMOS- and vegan-certified, with efficacy against static and dynamic wrinkles. The vertically integrated product also supports neuritogenesis.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – ReviScalp

Due to the “skinification” of products, consumers recognize the impact of scalp health on hair. An unhealthy scalp, characterized by oxidative stress and chronic inflammation, can be flaky and oily, with greasy, dull hair. Recent studies in skin prove that, to return to homeostasis, inflammation resolution must be activated to trigger the production of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) in the scalp. Applying Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ expertise in skin science, Reviscalp, a patented natural extract, was developed to boost the production of SPMs in the scalp, to accelerate the return to homeostasis. In shampoo, the ingredient has been proven to improve barrier function, rebalance pH and reduce hair oiliness and the appearance of dandruff.

Mibelle Biochemistry – CALMandrin

CALMandrin is Mibelle Biochemistry’s sustainable solution to soothe reddened skin and improve signs of skin aging. The upcycled ingredient is based on the peel paste of organic mandarins obtained from the fragrance distillation process. These mandarins are grown exclusively in historic orchards on the Greek island of Chios. Thanks to its anti-inflammaging effect, CALMandrin markedly increases skin firmness and density.

Mibelle Biochemistry – TiMOOD

TiMOOD is Mibelle Biochemistry’s novel neurocosmetic active based on timut pepper, a spice from the Himalayas. TiMOOD improves neuronal function in the skin and positively influences emotional well-being through the skin-brain axis. This “look good, feel good” concept has been proven by a combination of in vitro and clinical studies.

Rahn AG – Hairvivine-Pro

Hairvivine-Pro supports the physiological functioning of hair follicles. For healthy hair, a supply of new cells and the terminal differentiation of follicular keratinocytes into hair shaft elements must be ensured. External and internal factors, such as UV stress or hormonal changes, reduce the capacity for terminal differentiation, leading to hair thinning and hair loss. To counteract this, Hairvivine-Pro activates autophagy, energizing hair follicles and preserving hair growth. This innovation is recognition that autophagy is a cellular process, playing a major role on hair health. Hairvivine-Pro is derived as a pressed cake byproduct, upcycled from the processing of organically grown Styrian pumpkins for oil. It thus helps to close the production loop.

Sederma – Mel[o]stem

In line with the "sunification" trend, Mel[o]stem is an intelligent adaptive ingredient designed to support the appropriate balance of melanocyte activity, thereby capitalizing and preserving the benefits of sun exposure while limiting the appearance of unsightly skin pigment defects, e.g., dark and white spots. Its holistic approach demonstrates a 64% improvement in complexion evenness vs. the placebo (clinical study). Furthermore, the ingredient is obtained from the cell culture of scarlet balm leaves and offers unique attributes in sustainability: land use is reduced by 100×, water consumption is reduced by 35×, and waste is recovered 100%. In addition, total transparency over the ingredient’s sourcing and processing are provided; it is also RSPO- and COSMOS-approved.

SILAB – Senevisium

Supported by strong, science-backed expertise on senescent and immune cells interconnectivity, SILAB proposes an unprecedented anti-aging active ingredient: Senevisium. This is the first natural active ingredient capable counteracting the harmful immunoevasion activity of senescent cells in the skin. It achieves this by reactivating their natural elimination by the immune system without any direct immunomodulatory effect. As a result, skin density and elasticity are restored for anti-wrinkle and radiance-boosting effects. The ingredient is derived from and inspired by the exceptional longevity of Ginkgo biloba, which is supplied near SILAB’s production unit and whose green leaves are organically certified. Dedicated to mature skin, Senevisium is compliant with international cosmetic regulation requirements in Europe, the United States, China, Japan, etc.

Sino Lion USA – Ultimate Moisturizer: Evermoist AGG-50

Evermoist AGG-50 (Glyceryl Glycoside) is the ultimate moisturizer that is unique, multifunctional and revolutionary for several reasons. It works at the root cause of dry skin by regulating cellular water circulation from basal layer to stratum corneum via aquaporin protein 3 (AQP3) expression – whereas other moisturizers treat the superficial symptoms of dry skin by either absorbing water from the environment to the stratum corneum, or preventing water from evaporation from the stratum corneum. The ingredient also strengthens the skin barrier function by up-regulating the expression of barrier-related genes TGM1 and IVL. Finally, it alleviates skin sensitivity by down-regulating the expression of receptor RPV1, which makes it well-suited for sensitive skin. This COSMOS-certified, 100% natural origin product is a pure, effective, natural, bio-based and sustainable moisturizer made using biotechnology. It can be used in a wide range of applications.

TRI-K Industries – Fision HydraTress

Fision HydraTress is a powerful combination of proteins and peptides infused with hyaluronic acid – a well-known moisturizer that is now making waves in hair, too. The ingredient delivers balanced moisture protection for 24-hr frizz control in any environment, on various hair types in a single application. This unique product instantly improves shine for softer ends and enhances conditioning while detangling hair for increased manageability. Fision HydraTress features key ingredients including quinoa protein, pea peptide and hyaluronic acid, which are plant-based and vegan-compliant. These specific amino acids and peptides penetrate the hair cortex to nourish the fiber and bind water.

TRI-K Industries – Tri-K EssentiaTein Protect

Introducing EssentiaTein Protect, TRI-K's cutting-edge solution for pollution-proof hair. Our advanced enzymatic process ensures exceptional multi-benefit performance in a single product. Experience the power of anti-pollution defense combined with UV ray protection, intense hydration retention, and amplified shine. This groundbreaking technology incorporates sustainable ingredients like rice, baobab and amaranth, delivering continuous shielding against daily pollution, UV damage and oxidative stress. By restoring the hair cuticle, EssentiaTein Protect unveils a healthier-looking mane with a captivating, mirror-like shine. Users can embrace ultimate hair protection with EssentiaTein Protect and say goodbye to environmental stressors.