Global Cosmetic Industry recently surveyed experts in sun care to surface the latest trends, which include regulatory complexity, new photoprotection materials and more.
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Global Cosmetic Industry recently surveyed experts in sun care to surface the latest trends, which include regulatory complexity, new photoprotection materials and more.
Consumers' Sun Care Frustrations
“Consumers no longer want to choose between sun protection and skin care, and they demand ethical, sustainable and inclusive products,” says Margaret Sullivan, technical service scientist at Arcaea. “In the United States, limited UV filters are available to formulate effective sunscreens, making it difficult for brands to satisfy these consumer needs. While the trend toward improving aesthetics and reducing white-cast has led to a rise in the incorporation of SPF boosting technologies, it is now followed by growing criticism from consumers, questioning the safety profile and misleading ‘mineral-only’ claims of products loaded with additives that are technically chemical filters.”
A Complex Sun Care Regulatory Environment
“Consumers may find it difficult to understand and compare products when SPF labeling and regulations differ,” says Sundeep Gill, PharmD, co-founder of Sun Deep Inc. “For instance, what constitutes SPF 30 in one country might not be the same in another due to different testing criteria. SPF effectiveness can vary depending on how it's tested and regulated. Some regions might have stricter testing protocols or include different factors (like water resistance) in their SPF ratings, leading to discrepancies in actual protection levels.”
Gill notes, “Companies may need to formulate different versions of their products to comply with various regulations, which can lead to increased costs and complexity in manufacturing and distribution. Differences in SPF regulations can create barriers to international trade for sunscreen products. Companies may need to meet multiple regulatory requirements to sell their products globally. Companies exporting sunscreen products need to navigate multiple regulatory frameworks, which can be costly and time-consuming.”
He adds, “Compliance with different testing standards adds complexity to product development and marketing. Inconsistencies in SPF regulations could potentially impact consumer safety if products marketed as having a certain level of protection do not meet the expected standards in a particular region. Companies may face a significant regulatory burden due to the need to comply with multiple sets of SPF regulations. This can lead to delays in bringing products to market and increased launch costs.”
Unique Approaches to Photoprotection
“At Arcaea we are very excited to have initiated limited sampling of Gadusol, a naturally occurring compound first identified in fish roe that has unique photoprotection benefits,” says Sullivan.Arcaea
She adds, “We created a biosynthesis approach for manufacturing Gadusol, addressing the environmental concerns and commercial inviability of extracting from marine life. This is a new era for photoprotective skin care, where biotechnology enables us to offer an efficacious solution that resonates with the burgeoning demand for sustainable, eco-friendly consumer products."
Sullivan concludes, "A very small amount of Gadusol in formulation unlocks the opportunity for sustainably sourced photoprotective skin care benefits that also significantly improve the aesthetics of SPF products.”
Multi-benefit Sun Care
“Modern consumers seek more than UV protection; they want sun care products that also offer skin care benefits,” says Roni Rot, CEO, Jojoba Desert. “This trend stems from a desire for convenience and greater value, as consumers prefer products that deliver multiple benefits in one application.”
“It seems like many brands are launching sunscreens that leave a bronzy or glowy finish on the skin,” says Toussaint Jordan, marketing manager, Solabia USA and Applechem. “These products are simple but genius because chemical sunscreens can make skin look greasy and mineral sunscreens can make skin look chalky. The addition of bronzy or glowy pigments counteracts the greasiness and chalkiness to give a more desirable finish. I have also noticed sun care products becoming more targeted. For example, I've seen sunscreens specifically for tattoos and sunscreens for often forgotten areas like the scalp.”
Solabia and Applechem have put these trends into motion, says Jordan.
The marketing manager explains, “We recently launched a prototype formulation called Mineral Glow Skin Calming Elixir, SPF 55. It is a low-viscosity, high-SPF zinc oxide sunscreen with an enchanting sensory experience and a transparent finish. The goal of this prototype formulation is to show chemists that it is possible to achieve a high SPF zinc oxide sunscreen with an elegant feel on the skin. The SPF and sensory experience are achieved using a combination of our G-Block, S-Block DZ CocoDerm, and Sensogel Novus.”
“We’re seeing the ‘skinification’ trend now influencing sun care—essentially infusing skin care ingredients like brightening, bronzing and moisturizing actives in innovative sun care launches,” says Jen King, director of marketing, cosmetic ingredients NA, Symrise. “Another trend we’re seeing is multi-functional and hybrid formats that are providing all-in-one sun care solutions, for instance bronzers, primers and serums blended with SPF.”
King adds, “Consumers are desiring effective sun care formulas that also provide refreshing moisturization like Hydroviton Insta, which is crafted from upcycled French cucumbers. Although a smaller segment of the sun care market, we’re also seeing a need for calming after sun care products with soothing ingredients like our newest sensitive skin launch, SymCalmin Avena, which calms the skin and reduces redness.”
Consumer Preference Shifts in Mineral Sunscreens
“A very clear trend that has intensified in the past year [or so] is the demand and request for all-zinc oxide formulations, enhanced by various boosters,” says Jeroen van den Bosch, managing director, Uviva Technologies. “More and more consumers are trying to stay away from TiO2 based sunscreens due to negative press in powder, makeup and sprays. The main challenge and quest for most formulators is to find ways to make such sunscreens aesthetically pleasing, meaning transparent and easy to use.”
Van den Bosch continues, “The major launch of Uviva was Eclipse Z1 in 2023, a grade of zinc oxide with a new and specific morphology that has two main effects. The first is that it provides transparency levels that are the best in the industry today, while not sacrificing the SPF and UVA performance like most other transparency zinc oxides do. Secondly, the regular morphology of Eclipse Z1 has an extremely low impact on oil phase viscosity; this directly translates in the overall sensorial aspects of a formula. Blind panel studies showed that identical formulations using Eclipse significantly perform and score better on aspects such as skin feel, formula spreadability and transparency.”
The company will reportedly be launching a new booster in September 2024; the technology reportedly enhances SPF significantly beyond what is possible with commercially available materials.
New SPF Boosters & More
“Natural SPF boosting powders that significantly improve the performance of actives, are sustainably sourced, are biodegradable and are proven effective are in high demand,” says Sue Sender, director of marketing, Micro Powders, Inc. “It’s crucial that the ingredients being increasingly used in sun care do not have damaging effects on the environment, and it’s equally important that ingredients enhance aesthetics in formulations to impress consumers.”
“Enriched with vitamin E and omega 9, JD Jojoba Oil helps restore skin moisture and balance,” says Jojoba Desert’s Roni Rot. “It is a vital component in our sun care and after-sun products, soothing the skin from sunburn while promoting skin rejuvenation and nourishment."Jojoba Desert
Other suppliers are also focused on ingredients that enhance the sun care experience.
“Enriched with vitamin E and omega 9, JD Jojoba Oil helps restore skin moisture and balance,” says Jojoba Desert’s Rot. “It is a vital component in our sun care and after-sun products, soothing the skin from sunburn while promoting skin rejuvenation and nourishment. Incorporating JD Jojoba Oil, known for its hydrating and soothing properties, enhances product performance while offering effective and gentle solutions for the skin.”
The executive adds, “Aligning with the trend toward sensory satisfaction, JD Lusteris provides a lightweight, non-greasy ingredient that enhances the skin with a subtle glow. This product appeals to those seeking beautification with protection, offers a soothing effect, and deep moisturization, and adheres to environmentally sustainable practices.”
Rot concludes, “These products demonstrate Jojoba Desert’s proactive stance on leveraging natural efficacy and a comprehensive understanding of market needs. Our product lines reflect our commitment to delivering high-quality, innovative and sustainable cosmetic solutions.”
