Online searches for “hyperpigmentation” peaked in the last 12 months, per Google Trend data.
Log in to view the full article
Online searches for “hyperpigmentation” peaked in the last 12 months, per Google Trend data.
Top related concerns included post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—a condition typically inflicted by flare ups of acne (another top associated keyword), eczema, psoriasis and other conditions—and a close synonym, erythema.
The most searched ingredients related to hyperpigmentation include vitamin C, glycolic acid and vitamin A, while the top associated product terms include cleanser, soap, sunscreen and moisturizer.
Given the interest in hyperpigmentation, it's no surprise that the hyperpigmentation treatment market will grow at 7.58% every year through 2032, eventually totaling $10.68 billion per forecasts from Adroit Market Research.
The firm sees topical ingredients such as hydroquinone, retinoids, corticosteroids and kojic acid figuring prominently in this growth.
Top markets will include Asia Pacific, particularly India, China and Japan. That said, the previously cited Google Trend data, reflecting U.S. searches, points to greater universality of hyperpigmentation concerns.
Unsurprisingly, the immense interest in unwanted pigmentation issues has spurred a wide range of ingredient technology development.
Pigmentation Innovation
Targeting: Age Spots and Post-acne Marks
Melasyl is now available in La Roche Posay’s Mela B3 franchise, including MelaB3 serum and MelaB3 SPF30.La Roche Posay
L’Oréal formulations containing the proprietary ingredient work across all skin tones to address pigmented marks on the skin and improve their appearance, per the company.
The underlying technology was reportedly validated in a number of studies. One randomized controlled clinical study noteda that Melasyl, known as 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), "prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects."
The report concluded, “2-MNG inhibited both UV-induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2-MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin-rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.”
Another publicationb, “A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation,” concluded:
The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.
Melasyl is now available in La Roche Posay’s Mela B3 franchise, including MelaB3 serum and MelaB3 SPF30.
The Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum with Melasyl + Niacinamide reportedly “visibly reduces a range of skin discoloration, including sunspots, age spots, post-acne marks (or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), and even the most stubborn dark spots” for all skin tones.
The Mela B3 UV Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 with Melasyl + Niacinamide is designed to simultaneously “protect skin against visible signs of sun damage caused by UVA and UVB exposure” while addressing the appearance of dark spots with Melasyl and 5% niacinamide.
A Green Tea Vitamin C Brightening Alternative
Givaudan Active Beauty's Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol (EGCG; epigallocatechin gallate) prebiotic skin brightening active with universal efficacy against skin pigmentation for all skin types.sonyakamoz at Adobe Stock
The technology is being positioned as an alternative to brightening technologies such as vitamin C.
Illuminyl 388 reportedly targets multiple skin pigmentation pathways, paired with prebiotic activity to deliver brightening for skin types from Africa, Asia, India and Europe.
The ingredient’s sugar moiety reportedly allows it to penetrate deep into the skin via cellular glucose receptors; that moiety also confers on the molecule a prebiotic activity that reportedly stimulates the in-situ release of a niacin-derivative by the skin microflora.
Givaudan has given the new material a B-Biome score of B, signaling that the active works in synergy with the microbiome to preserve the general balance of the skin’s microbiota.
The company launched the scoring mechanism in June 2023 to underscore technologies that are microbiome-friendly, scientifically demonstrated, backed by a scientific publication and endorsed by a dermatological expert.
In clinical studies involving more than 200 individuals with skin tones representative of African, Asian, Indian and Caucasian backgrounds, Illuminyl 388 was reportedly found to enhance skin tone, luminosity and radiance within two weeks.
Within one month, Illuminyl 388 reduced pigmentation spots, per the company.
In addition, it enhanced homogeneity of skin tone, including age spots.
In the April 2024 edition of Global Cosmetic Industry, Fabrice Lefèvre, marketing and innovation director, Givaudan Active Beauty, said of the new technology:
Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol, based on cell free glycosylation.
This biotech improved EGCG molecule drastically improves the molecular stability, solubility and biodisponibility.
Targeting all the main stages of the pigmentation process (melanogenesis, tyrosinase activity, melanin transfer…), together with a powerful antioxidant activity, this new active efficiently brightens the skin tone.
This action is innovatively reinforced by a synergistic prebiotic activity, favoring the growth of specific bacteria in the skin microbiome, releasing a powerful niacin-derivative.
Ocean-derived Brightening
Oceanium’s Ocean Actives Fucoidan is a fucose-rich sulphated polysaccharide, high-purity marine bioactive ingredient derived from sustainably farmed seaweed which restores, calms and protects all skin types.
Key benefits of the ingredient include immediate and long-term moisturization, pigment reduction and brightening, a reduction in redness, and enhancement of the skin barrier, per the company.
Ocean Actives Fucoidan is water-soluble and non-odorous, allowing for application in a range of delivery systems and formats to promote topical skin vitality activity. It is ideal for use in water-based gels, serums, lotions and creams, face and body moisturizers, overnight treatments, face masks, and after-shave creams and lotions, according to the company.
Multi-target Tech: Hyperpigmentation, Facial Lines & Sebum Overproduction
Ashland’s Perfectyl biofunctional is an organic Oregonian chamomile extract that relaxes facial lines without the intervention of injections; it also minimizes post-inflammatory hyperpigmentationPixel-Shot at Adobe Stock
The material, rich in GABA amino acid (sometimes called “slow Botox”) and flower acids, is in line with increased interest in cosmetic procedures and non-invasive alternatives.
The extract was developed using Zeta Fraction technology, which “gently separates live plants or algae into various bioactive components,” per the supplier.
Its functionality was reportedly “predicted” by artificial intelligence; per Ashland, Perfectyl acts on the GABA pathway through GABAA expression ex vivo, resulting in the relaxing of facial lines and minimizing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sebum overproduction associated with environmental and lifestyle stressors.
The results can reportedly be achieved across three skin ethnicities and four phototypes, rendering the technology ideal for inclusive beauty solutions offering perfecting and anti-aging claims.
“The younger generation of women are increasingly using non-surgical aesthetic procedures to get flawless skin, and this trend is driven by social media with billions of views,” said Justine Cotton, global marketing, biofunctionals, Ashland. “Inspired by these new aesthetic practices used by Gen Z and millennials to achieve a perfect skin, Ashland has developed Perfectyl to help smooth fine lines, refine enlarged pores, clarify imperfections and uneven skin, specifically pigment spots.”
New Ingredient Highlights
Beyond brightening and pigmentation solutions, a wide range of suppliers have unveiled new actives and functional ingredients around the in-cosmetics Global and Suppliers’ Day shows in Paris and New York, respectively. Here, we round up some of the latest highlights.
Solving Vitamin C Stability with Waterless Tech
TaikiUSA’s new waterless Bōshi Beauty Vitamin C Nano Drop Antioxidant Power technology entraps vitamin C within numerous layers of nanofibers, thereby minimizing degradation and maximizing antioxidant activity.TaikiUSA
By solving vitamin C’s notorious stability issues, Bōshi Nano Drops exhibit antioxidant activity that is reportedly 4x more powerful than a traditional vitamin C serum, according to initial DPPH assay results.
According to the company, waterless Bōshi Nano Drops are also able to stabilize other typically unstable antioxidants, creating new opportunities for brands to deliver enhanced efficacy.
The drops can be developed in customizable formulas, shapes and packaging, per TaikiUSA.
A Sun-mimicking Glow Booster
Givaudan Active Beauty’s Neuroglow the active is designed to mimic the "positive effects of the sun," thereby imparting a healthy glow and good mood.
The launch is in line with current trends in beauty brand and ingredient innovation that foregrounds holistic well-being.
As Mintel noted in its 2024 trend reportc, “The next chapter of wellness will be mind-body beauty, where mental well-being and physical appearance are interconnected.”
Givaudan’s new technology comprises a green fractionation of Persicaria tinctoria, often called Chinese indigo, which is sourced in Provence, France.
Neuroglow reportedly boosts melanin production by 126%, mimicking the aesthetic effects of sun exposure. This melanin increase is said to prepare the skin for sun exposure, allowing for a “faster, healthier, more natural and better protected tan,” per Givaudan.
A clinical trial cited by the company reportedly demonstrated a notable phototype shift in 76% of participants in 7 days, shifting from phototype II to phototype III; 40% of these shifted to a darker phototype, IV, compared to 0% in the placebo group.
The technology is said to increase the release of beta-endorphins by 43%, vitamin D by 345% and oxytocin by 229%, thereby imparting a sense of well-being, per Givaudan.
Non-irritating Anti-ager
Grant Industries’ encapsulated Granactive Retinoid Pro+ delivers anti-aging and anti-acne efficacy as well as antioxidant benefits with low irritation. The concentrated anhydrous powder comprises hydroxypinacolone retinoate, a highly bioavailable vitamin A derivative, encapsulated and stabilized in gamma-cyclodextrin with alpha-glucosylrutin.
In applications at levels of 2-6%, the 98% natural (per ISO 16128) technology boosts the skin’s biological processes to engender anti-aging benefits, including a reduction in oxidative stress and photoaging. Meanwhile, the technology’s encapsulation allows it to function in powders and water-based gels.
A New Product Defense Tool
Symrise’s new biodegradable Savelite HB multifunctional hydroxypropolyester defends against formulation oxidation and microorganisms while boosting moisturization.
The antimicrobial technology can be applied to any cosmetic products targeting normal to sensitive skin, per Symrise.
Savelite HB, which is based on propanediol and benzoic acid molecules, is a clear, colorless and odorless liquid that is cold-processable, thereby reportedly saving time and energy during production.
According to Symrise, in vivo corneometer testing showed a moisturization increase of 10.9% after two weeks of use of the ingredient. At the same time, the technology is safe for the skin microbiome. Furthermore, it helps stabilize emulsions by reducing oil droplet size.
New Solutions for Mature Skin
Future-proofing Mature & Youthful Skin
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Corneopeptyl biomimetic peptide spurs the natural barrier function of both older and younger skin against external aggressors for a simultaneously anti- and pre-aging effect.deniskomarov at Adobe Stock
Obtained via a green chemistry-based process, the technology biomimics the late cornified envelope 6A (LCE6A) protein, which supports the mechanical resistance of corneocytes in the stratum corneum.
In this way, Corneopeptyl acts on the skin’s surface to strengthen the corneocyte envelope and, as a result, its natural barrier protection.
The LCE6A protein was reportedly discovered by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics in collaboration with the Infinity Institute. Like the protein, Corneopeptyl strengthens the corneocyte envelope, resulting in a more resilient epidermal barrier with improved skin barrier function.
This results in diminished skin permeability and water loss, which has implications for the appearance of wrinkles, skin roughness, tonicity and hydration.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ testing reportedly underscores the technology's efficacy for both younger and older skin.
Among younger test panelists, Corneopeptyl reduced the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines in 14 days. It also reportedly boosted skin hydration and tonicity in 28 days.
Among older test panelists, the ingredient reduced the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines in 14 days and improved skin hydration, tonicity and smoothness in 28 days.
A range of clinical studies cited by the company reportedly showed that Corneopeptyl can rebuild the skin barrier in 7 days by reducing skin penetration, water loss and inflammation.
Furthermore, an AI- and algorithm-powered test reportedly “showed real-life results from volunteers with once-per-day application for 28 days: the skin looks 2 years younger and, in some instances, up to 4 years.”
Combatting Oiliness in Mature Skin
Ultra Chemical’s Bicobiome (INCI: water (aqua) (and) phosphatidylcholine (and) niacinamide (and) Lactobacillus ferment (and) salicylic acid), a multi-active complex designed to address common issues associated with excessive sebum production, such as inflammation and microbiome dysbiosis.
The technology is composed of a multi-component system that delivers three actives to the skin layer, including:
- niacinamide to the follicle to help regulate sebum production and reduce inflammation;
- salicylic acid to the stratum corneum surface to help promote a mild desquamation, reduce lesions of problematic skin, and improve skin texture and soften wrinkles;
- and Lactobacillus ferment to the first layers of the skin to favor commensal microbes.
Per Ultra Chemical, the complex is clinically proven to combat oiliness in mature skin and improve scalp health for those with an oily scalp prone to dandruff.
Beauty Alternatives
Heavy Silicone Alternative
Seppic recently published data on Emogreen HP 40 (INCI: C15-19 alkane, hydrogenated polyfarnesene), an alternative to heavy silicones, particularly for hair care.
The new tests reportedly demonstrated its benefits on hair shine and color retention. Comparative results to silicones for the skin care market were also demonstrated.
According to Seppic, Emogreen HP40, applied undiluted to dry curly hair, showed comparable performance in terms of shine to phenyl trimethicone, a reference silicone on this claim. The ingredient also helped prevent color fade due to its film-forming properties.
In skin care, the ingredient provided a perceptible feel and a better adaptation to the skin’s relief than silicones, per the company. In an emulsion, it demonstrated improved spreading and absorption of the emulsion’s oil droplets on the skin. As a result, it formed a flexible, even and full-coverage film.
Ginseng-derived Retinol Alternative
CycloRetin's heterophyllin B molecule is a cyclic peptide that enhances skin matrix production, per Clariant, thereby improving collagen and reducing the signs of aging.Clariant
The technology can also be viewed as a comparably efficacious alternative to bakuchiol, a common natural retinol alternative.
CycloRetin's heterophyllin B molecule is a cyclic peptide that enhances skin matrix production, per Clariant, thereby improving collagen and reducing the signs of aging.
The technology is soluble in water, with efficacy at even low concentrations.
Julie Droux, global technical marketing manager for actives and natural origins, explained, “While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our lab we discovered prince ginseng’s outstanding potential to restart the skin matrix production cycle. Highly effective even at low concentrations, peptides play a crucial role in supporting youthful skin appearance.”
A Botanical Retinol Alternative
Grand Industries now offers Bakuchiol Ester BCR, which was developed in partnership with Bio Component Research, a botanical extract specialist. The new retinol alternative is reportedly backed by clinical data, offering effective plant-based anti-aging benefits.
Algae-derived Hyaluronic Acid Alternative
Asakura City (pictured) is home to the Kogane River, which is said to be the only natural habitat for Suizenji nori.M・H at Adobe Stock
The technology, available in "B" and "F" variants, reportedly reduces the appearance of redness, fine lines and wrinkles. It also marks the company's expansion beyond color cosmetics to skin care.
According to a 2022 publication, "The Pharmacological Potential of Cyanobacteria," Aphanothece sacrum comprises a sulfated polysaccharide, sacran, which has a number of benefits for the skin, including anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as protective film-forming capabilities. The publication goes further, suggesting sacran as a possible alternative to hyaluronic acid.
Sacranex was developed as part of a joint venture with DIC Corporation and biotech specialist Green Science Materials, Inc., first initiated in August 2022.
Notably, the indoor mass cultivation of the algae reportedly supports conservation of the Kogane River (Asakura City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan), which is said to be the only natural habitat for Suizenji nori.
“Sun Chemical has always been the expert in bringing vibrant colors to life,” said Ed Webb, global director of cosmetics, Sun Chemical. “Now we’re extending our expertise beyond pigments to introduce an active ingredient derived from Suizenji nori algae. Just as we’ve mastered the art of color in beauty, we’re bringing skin care solutions that enhance natural formulations from the inside out.”
Seed Powder Exfoliant & Whitener Alternative
Praan Naturals’ Tagua Seed Powder (INCI: Phytelephas aequatorialis (tagua) seed powder), sourced from Ecuador, is a natural alternative to synthetic exfoliants and whitening agents, per the company. It is produced using ethically harvested and upcycled tagua seeds—with no added fillers or other materials.
When ground into a fine powder, tagua seeds generate a pure white, plant-based exfoliant that is suited for cleansers and exfoliating products, per the company.
Anáil Moon Devī, CEO of Praan Naturals, commented, “Praan Naturals’ Tagua Seed Powder is a derivative (secondary) product made from tagua seed pieces that remain after Ecuadorian community artisans produce buttons and ornamental objects. Grinding these remaining pieces into Tagua Seed Powder ensures that none of the beneficial seed material goes to waste.”
Praan Naturals’ manufacturing partner reportedly supports local indigenous communities, engages in fair trade and is FairWild certified.
Sustainable Beauty Upgrades
In addition to clean swaps for conventional ingredients, a number of suppliers offer more sustainable options for brand marketers an formulators.
For instance, Grant Industries’ Gransense TC-55X/C is a bio-based elastomer for skin care formulations that is COSMOS-approved. The technology reportedly imparts a notable velvety skin feel. And, per the company, “Its sustainable profile and exceptional performance are set to redefine expectations in skin care sensory experiences.”
Elsewhere, Pilot Chemical Company’s CalCare 190C is a personal care biosurfactant with a 98.6% Renewable Carbon Index, per the company. The clear material has a stable pH range of 3-11 and the ability to form high and stable foam.
U.S.-manufactured, CalCare 190C has a foam and lather profile that makes it appropriate for shampoo and body wash formulations and is reportedly compatible with other surfactants.
“What makes CalCare 190C special is it can help reduce your carbon footprint without sacrificing efficacy,” said Richard Rehg, vice president of commercial, Pilot Chemical Company. “It also helps meet the need of procuring sustainable biosurfactants without the hassle of long lead times or unreliable supply.”
FOOTNOTES
ahttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.16200
bhttps://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jdv.19910
chttps://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/library/item/november_2023/4145335/
