To better help R&D and marketing teams in their product innovation journeys, Global Cosmetic Industry’s monthly cosmetic ingredient briefing breaks down not only the latest materials, but also the trends, market data and relevant claims those technologies respond to. From consumer data to advancements in sustainable chemistry, this regular bulletin helps beauty professionals scope out their next differentiating breakthrough. This month’s edition features a wide array of innovations, including functional water, a workout-mimicking facial rejuvenator and more.
Turning Water Into a Functional Beauty Ingredient
Meaningful Beauty by Cindy Crawford has tapped Hydrosome’s ultra-fine bubble technology in the reformulation of the brand's Youth Activating Melon Serum.
The revamped formula pairs the suppliers' Hydrosome H2O technology with Meaningful Beauty’s proprietary Melon Leaf Stem Cell Technology to more effectively deliver active skin care ingredients to skin cells.
The result is visibly plumped, firmed, radiant and deeply hydrated skin, as well as increased elasticity and defense against environmental aggressors.
Hydrosome H2O: Tiny Bubbles, Big Impact
“We’re excited to introduce Hydrosome H2O as the latest technology innovation in our hero product,” says Laura Lum, co-president of Meaningful Beauty. “We’re the first in the beauty industry to supercharge our revolutionary serum with this breakthrough technology designed to deliver best-in-class ingredients deeper into the skin for better absorption."Meaningful Beauty
This ultra-fine sizing, paired with greater surface area versus bubbles in conventional water, reportedly makes the Hydrosome bubbles ideal for delivering ingredients to cells.
By pairing ingredients with Hydrosome H2O, beauty manufacturers can reportedly "do more with less, use fewer chemicals, reduce environmental impact, simplify ingredient lists and shorten supply chains," per the company.
In addition to enhanced performance, Hydrosome H2O is produced sustainably by applying a patented hydrodynamic cavitation process to ultra-pure water. This low-energy process requires no added chemicals or consumables, per Hydrosome.
“We’re excited to introduce Hydrosome H2O as the latest technology innovation in our hero product,” says Laura Lum, co-president of Meaningful Beauty. “We’re the first in the beauty industry to supercharge our revolutionary serum with this breakthrough technology designed to deliver best-in-class ingredients deeper into the skin for better absorption."
“Water has traditionally been a passive ingredient in beauty products," says Hydrosome Labs president, Bob Jacobs. "With Hydrosome H2O, water is transformed into a functional ingredient and active delivery system that enhances the ability to deliver ingredients and formulas that provide beauty benefits from wrinkle reduction to increased firmness, elasticity, and hydration."
Fit Skin from Baobab Stem Cells
Vytrus’ plant biotechnology-derived Baolift skin care technology reportedly simulates the facial rejuvenating impacts of a fitness workout.
The technology works at the cellular level to enhance the skin’s molecular mechanisms to generate a V-lifting effect on the face for a "fit skin" appearance.
Baolift reportedly enhances communication through the skin-fascia-muscle axis, “a bidirectional communication network where the skin cells activate muscle cells, which in turn transfer exercise benefits to the skin through the fascia,” per the company.
In this way, the ingredient delivers fitness-inspired skin care to generate firming, strengthening and anti-sagging effects on the face, eye contour and body.
Baolift is derived from the stem cells of baobab (Adansonia digitata), a superfood found in many fitness-oriented supplements, foods and beverages.
Pore-reducing Postbiotic
BioAktive’s Lactomaizol postbiotic (INCI: Zea mays (corn) kernel extract (and) Lactobacillus ferment lysate filtrate (and) Lactobacillus/rice ferment (and) glycerin (and) modified corn starch (and) betaine (and) xanthan gum (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) phenethyl alcohol (and) propanediol), derived through fermentation, has been shown in vivo to reduce the visible size of pores while smoothing skin, the company reports.
In vivo Cleansing, Pore Size Testing
In assessments focused on cleansing efficiency and facial pore size/visibility, Lactomaizol formulas were compared with a placebo and traditional formulations in half-face tests. In terms of cleansing, Lactomaizol (20%) outperformed the placebo, cleansing up to 57% of impurities vs. 15% of impurities with placebo only. The ingredient also reduced the size/visibility of facial pores and improved skin smoothness by 57%—up to 4x the standard formulation.
Lactomaizol’s Postbiotic Applications
The company recommends the ingredient for skin cleansing, oil management, and products for oily and sensitive skin, including cleansers, shampoos, body washes, makeup removers and more. Claims associated with the technology include:
- sebum regulation
- gentle cleansing
- skin soothing
- redness reduction
Flexible Film, Colorfast Effects, Strength and Gloss for Lipsticks
“Radiastar 1436 was shown to increase the break strength of lipstick without increasing lipstick hardness too substantially,” explains Ine Matthè, product manager at Oleon Health & Beauty.Pixel-Shot at Adobe Stock
For example, when used in lipstick formulations, Radiastar 1436 assists in creating a solid, uniform layer on the lips that reportedly does not flake or break even as the solvent evaporates. The ingredient also leaves a firm deposit after application with good adhesion, for flexible coverage that is sturdy enough to flex with lip movements.
“Radiastar 1436 was shown to increase the break strength of lipstick without increasing lipstick hardness too substantially,” explains Ine Matthè, product manager at Oleon Health & Beauty. “This Guerbet alcohol can therefore be used to create a more resilient lipstick without compromising the payoff. And, with its high refractive index, Radiastar 1436 gives a nice gloss to the lipstick together with a high color intensity.”
On a final note, according to Oleon Health and Beauty, the occlusivity of Radiastar 1436 is comparable to mineral oil and better than octyldodecanol, making it an ideal green alternative to synthetic film formers.
Matthè concludes, “With its unique skin feel, good oxidation stability, and excellent pigment dispersion properties, Radiastar 1436 is a superior film-forming emollient for use in a broad range of color cosmetic and personal care formulations.”
Brazilian Amazonian Biotech Coming to North America
Earlier this year, Apoena Biotech held its second bioprospecting expedition for sustainable biological actives, this time in the Tapajós National Forest of Pará in Brazil's Amazon.Apoena Biotech
In 2022, Apoena Biotech ethically bioprospected microorganisms from the Brazilian archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, called the “Blue Amazon,” with the ambition to develop ingredients for the cosmetics and fragrance sector via biotechnological processes.
And, earlier this year, Apoena Biotech held its second bioprospecting expedition for sustainable biological actives, this time in the Tapajós National Forest of Pará in Brazil’s Amazon.
Most recently, Apoena launched Apobio Film, a multifunctional, biofilm-forming postbiotic product with moisturizing/TEWL-preventing properties for hair and skin care.
On hair, the technology forms a protective film on the hair surface, which retains moisture within the hair, prolonging hydration and preventing dryness.
The technology is produced from the fermentation of polysaccharide- and fructooligosaccharide-rich probiotic bacteria.
Under the latest deal with Integrity Ingredients, Apoena Biotech will bring its sustainable biotechnological ingredients to Integrity’s portfolio.
“With Apoena as our partner, we are proud to add fermented and bioengineered ingredients to our portfolio,” says David Howell, CEO at Integrity Ingredients Corporation. “These materials will not only enhance product formulas but also meet the growing demand for sustainable and effective personal care ingredients.”
