September 2023

This month’s issue of C&T goes "back to the basics." It deviates from our typical content by including advice, opinion and tips for product development – in addition to our well-respected technical articles. Themes range from preservation, texture and structure, to emotion and perception, adapting to future market directions, fostering disciplined creativity and more. We hope this month’s flashback to the basics "schools" you in ways to rethink and reinvent your product development efforts.

Cosmetics & Toiletries September 2023
September 2023
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Chemists Lab Teach Lesson Adobe Stock 193476982 (1)
Editor's Note: Flashback to the Basics
Aug 29th, 2023
The present study examined the effects of commercially available jojoba esters in liquid, natural jojoba-like form in three studies measuring irritation mitigation, skin hydration and soothing properties.
Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment
Aug 29th, 2023
Since foamed products are easier to spread and absorb and penetrate quickly, they also tend to avoid the greasy, sticky or oily feeling that creams can leave on the skin after application.
Foam Format Improves Skin Cream Application, Penetration
Aug 29th, 2023
Sustainability is an important mega-trend, and as with all trends, if we can understand the drivers, we can better understand not just the trend, but also its future direction.
How Market Trends Have Shaped the Industry — Tips, Traps and Lessons Learned
Aug 29th, 2023
Emotions are much more than chemical reactions or automatic responses since they provide valuable information about the self, interactions with other people and the environment.
How Facial Emotional Expressions Affect Age Perception
Aug 29th, 2023
“Consumers …[expect products to be] innovative, effective, long-lasting, sensitive skin friendly and [to protect] the skin from external aggressors.'
Care for Compromised Skin: Anti-climate Change, Barrier Health, Microbiome, Pollution Protection and Clinical Efficacy
Aug 29th, 2023
Chemist Naturals Formulating Concept Preservation Adobe Stock 187290417
The Preservative Quagmire
Aug 29th, 2023
In face powders and eye shadows, wax blends are introduced into binding systems since these cosmetics require mechanical resistance to withstand being dropped or struck.
Formulating Forum: How Waxes and Polymers Secretly Power Cosmetics
Aug 29th, 2023
The European Union (EU) Commission has notified to the World Trade Organization (WTO) a draft regulation on nine cosmetic ingredients that will amend the Annexes to the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR).
EU/UK Regulatory Updates: ECHA, CBD, Animal Testing Bans
Aug 29th, 2023
This article shares ways to foster disciplined creativity in cosmetics R&D. It is divided into 12 basic principles, many of which may seem like common sense but can be taken for granted in the fast pace of day-to-day tasks – so they deserve revisiting.
12 Key Principles to Foster Disciplined Creativity for Beauty Breakthroughs
Aug 29th, 2023
This article discusses psychodermatology and how it can affect mental health. It also discusses Western beauty standards and human perception of beauty.
Psyche, Skin and Synchronization
Aug 29th, 2023
In the case of fluctuating PET results for w/o products, it can be useful to increase the number of samples to verify the results.
Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part II: Making Microbiological Safety Assessments
Oct 5th, 2022
Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of their suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods and options for their optimization. It also critically observes to what extent test results provide relevant information for an appropriate safety assessment. Part II, in August 2022, will explore a holistic approach to more accurately assess microbiological safety.
Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part I: Test Performance and Limitations
Jul 20th, 2022