[podcast] Blue Light, Pollution, CBD and More: Testing Today’s Cosmetics

Nov 5th, 2021

Rachel Grabenhofer with Rishabh Kala, Ph.D., Genemarkers, LLC

Genemarkers, LLC

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Cannabinoids for skin care, blue light and environmental stress protection, cruelty-free formulas and more are at the heart of today's cosmetics and personal care product claims.

In this podcast, sponsored by Genemarkers, Rishabh Kala, Ph.D., senior scientist, describes approaches to substantiate these claims and emerging testing trends.

"In response to the current market needs, we have ... developed testing related to oxidative stress, skin repair, DNA repair...," says Kala.

"We have also seen an increase in evaluating biochemical actives, fermented ingredients and even different delivery systems to formulate extracts like cannabinoids."

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Using an oil blotting film to collect facial sebum, Kao can apply skin surface lipids-RNA monitoring technology to 'infer' skin and physical conditions such as pediatric atopic dermatitis and Parkinson's disease.

Kao's New Infant Sebum Testing Protocol Can Flag Atopic Dermatitis, Parkinson's Disease

The move is the start of Kao's expansion into health testing services.

In evaluating how different solvents may affect the rheology of personal care formulas, it is helpful to consider that different formulation types have distinct relationships between viscosity and elasticity depending on the factors generating their elastic properties.

How Natural Butylene Glycol Advances Market and Rheology Dynamics

Demand for sustainable ingredients in cosmetics and personal care is well-known. Here, a sustainable natural butylene glycol is described to advance this trend and its effects on viscosity and elasticity are assessed in five test formulas.

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to have a substantial increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

Efficacy Testing Market Worth $423 Million by 2027

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to substantially increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

The authors believe that adding the properties of a wide range of commercial sunscreens to the system database will increase the rate of appropriate sunscreen usage by customers.

AmorePacific, Hanyang Univ. Dynamically Visualize UV Dose on SPF-protected Skin

Work by AmorePacific and Hanyang University, Seoul, published in Skin Research & Technology, reveals a dynamic approach to visualize UV dose based on MED, weather, outdoor activity, etc., on SPF-protected skin.

To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from Sargassum vulgare, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage. The algae was fermented using a proprietary yeast to enrich this bioactive content; the resulting ingredient was tested as described here for skin benefits.

Brown Seaweed Ferment Propagates UV Damage Protection for Skin

To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from Sargassum vulgare, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage.

The model accurately predicted skin permeability and the speed of the UHPLC method could classify it as a high-throughput approach.

Test Model Developed to Predict Skin Permeability of Compounds

A test model published in the Journal of Chromatography A uses retention on octadecyl, cholesterol-bonded and immobilized artificial membrane columns to accurately predict the skin permeability of compounds.

The Dermial ingredient, a hyaluronic acid matrix ingredient for skin and beauty, delivers better results for skin health over standard hyaluronic acid (HA) in nutricosmetic form.

Bioiberica’s Dermial Nutricosmetic Outperforms Extracted and Fermented HAs

A pre-clinical in vitro study showed the Dermial hyaluronic acid (HA) matrix nutricosmetic increased type I collagen production by almost half. According to Bioiberica, this has not been seen with standard extracted or fermented HAs.

For multifunctional products such as moisturizing hand sanitizers, the sanitizer claim requires a significant reduction (2-3 log) of a microorganism population while the moisturizer claim requires data showing an increase in skin moisture.

Testing the Safety and Efficacy of Multifunctional Personal Care Products, A Primer

Multifunctional products may offer solutions to consumer challenges but as the needs of consumers grow more complex, so do their safety and efficacy testing. This article provides a primer on these considerations.

Silicones are widely used as binders in pressed powders but growing consumer skepticism has prompted the use of alternatives. The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy of three plant-derived natural binders in obtaining optimal pressed powders, using dimethicone as a standard.

‘Pressed’ for Powders: Replacing Dimethicone with Plant-derived Alternatives*

The aim of this study was to assess the efficacy of three plant-derived natural binders in obtaining optimal pressed powders, using dimethicone as a standard.

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Reduction of skin stress by CBD products: Aiming high above the competition

The use of cannabinoid products is growing in popularity. Formulate with cannabinoids confidently with effective technology development strategy from Eurofins – download a free brochure on CBD testing for safety and compliance.