Skin aging is associated with the denaturation of proteins and reduced function of regenerative stem cells.1, 2 In terms denaturation, while numerous internal and external factors contribute to skin aging, UV radiation is the most significant factor. Exposure to UV induces the formation of free radicals that damage the skin's lipid barrier, resulting in the degradation of unsaturated lipids in the intercellular cement and altered fibrillar protein structures such as collagen and elastin. Additionally, physiological malfunctions, such as impaired epidermal exfoliation and tissue regeneration, play a role in skin aging.1, 3
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Skin aging is associated with the denaturation of proteins and reduced function of regenerative stem cells.1, 2 In terms denaturation, while numerous internal and external factors contribute to skin aging, UV radiation is the most significant factor. Exposure to UV induces the formation of free radicals that damage the skin's lipid barrier, resulting in the degradation of unsaturated lipids in the intercellular cement and altered fibrillar protein structures such as collagen and elastin. Additionally, physiological malfunctions, such as impaired epidermal exfoliation and tissue regeneration, play a role in skin aging.1, 3
Current approaches to address these negative effects focus on protecting skin cells, to slow the aging process, or stimulating and revitalizing natural physiological processes. Protective cosmetics include materials that act as UV filters and ingredients such as vitamins E and C, coenzyme Q10, carotenoids, polyphenols and flavonoids that neutralize free radicals.1, 4-7
In terms of regenerative function, as noted, reduced stem cell activity is a critical factor. The growth and regeneration of tissues in both animal and plant organs are largely due to the presence of stem cells. As many readers know, stem cells are undifferentiated cells that have the ability to transform into various specialized cells, dividing and proliferating to form new organs.8, 9 Plant stem cells are totipotent, meaning they can regenerate or build new organs throughout the plant's lifetime.10, 11 In plants, two important sources of stem cells are apical and lateral meristematic tissues.
Plant stem cells are promising alternatives to traditional anti-aging materials since they can differentiate into various cell types, including skin cells, and they have the ability to self-renew. This means they can create new stem cells to replace those that have been lost or damaged. Indeed, studies have shown that plant stem cells can protect human stem cells, stimulate skin regeneration and prevent or delay skin aging.1, 12
In recent years, the cosmetics industry has turned to plant stem cells and their ability to stimulate the proliferation of epidermal stem cells as an approach to aging. This has gained attention due in part to European law banning the use of human and animal-originated substances in cosmetics. Advances in biotechnology have also driven interest, as this has led to the development of active cosmetic components derived from plant cell cultures that can offer unique advantages over traditional plant extracts.
For example, similar to natural extracts, plant stem cell extracts are capable of producing a wide range of bioactive compounds that can rejuvenate skin – including antioxidants, growth factors and other beneficial molecules – or impart anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects. However, by employing biotechnology techniques, one can regulate the biosynthetic pathway in plant cell cultures to enhance the synthesis of such compounds, giving the ingredients greater biological efficacy than traditional plant extracts.13
Moreover, the use of plant stem cell culture technology allows for the production of active ingredients on a larger yet more sustainable scale, with greater consistency and purity. As such, the use of plant stem cell culture technology represents a significant advancement in the development of active cosmetic ingredients.
This paper explores plant stem cells, their production and active constituents for anti-aging and rejuvenating skin care products. It also reviews the literature in terms of their benefits and provides several commercial examples.
Stem Cell Culturing and Antioxidant Content
Plant stem cells can be cultured in vitro using a micropropagation method. Here, a certain part of the plant, such as the root, leaf or fruit, is selected to create a callus. A callus is created by cutting the plant and transferring the stem cells into agar-containing plates. Specific types of reactors are then used for the large-scale culturing of cells in a liquid medium under controlled conditions. The cultured stem cells are exposed to high pressure, followed by cell membrane digestion and the delivery of its contents to the substrate.1, 3, 4 The resulting plant stem cell-derived extracts contain various active chemicals that offer numerous advantages for skin – especially antioxidants.
Antioxidants are considered one of the most important ingredients for anti-aging cosmetic products, since free radicals are the most active agents in skin aging. Free radicals can damage DNA and lipids in the stratum corneum and lead to dehydrogenation, hydroxylation and protein glycation of the skin. This can result in decreased skin elasticity and efficiency of cell replication and regulation of transepidermal water loss.14, 15
Plant stem cells contain numerous antioxidant compounds, including polyphenols, peptides, flavonoids, carotenoids, phenolic acids and triterpenes. These provide antioxidant and other anti-aging properties for cosmetic products.16-24
For example, in a 2015 study, the antioxidant activity of polyphenolic substances extracted from the stems of three Greek grape species was investigated in endothelial and muscle cells. The results showed that polyphenolic compounds, such as quercetin, trans-resveratrol, coumaric acid, kaempferol and gallic acid, within grape stem extracts played an important role in their antioxidant capacity. As such, these compounds could be used as antioxidant supplements in various industries.25
Tomato fruits also contain numerous antioxidant agents, mostly phenolic acids and flavonoids, within their tissue. Interestingly, previous studies have shown that in tomato stem cell extract, the content of antioxidant agents such as rutin, coumaric acid, protocatechuic acid and chlorogenic acid in the extract was higher than that of the tomato fruit.16 Additionally, green tea stem cell extract (Camellia sinensis) and white ginseng extract (Panax ginseng) have been shown to be effective antioxidant substances for use in cosmetics.26, 27
Skin Benefits
The active constituents in plant stem cells can do everything from aid in skin regeneration, slow the process of aging and protect against UV radiation, to promote the DNA repair process of cells, in turn leading to the revitalization of damaged epidermis, and even increase the flexibility of the epidermis.5, 28, 29 It is worth noting that the efficacy of plant stem cells in cosmetics can vary depending on the concentration and formulation of the product, as well as individual factors such as skin type and age. Nevertheless, following are specific examples from the literature.
Anti-wrinkle effects: Research has shown that the use of plant stem cells in cosmetic products can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging. For example, one study found that a cream containing apple stem cells was effective in reducing the depth of wrinkles and improving skin elasticity in women ages 30 to 50.30
Hydration, rejuvenation, elasticity and brightening: Another study found that a cream containing grape stem and Alpine rose stem cells was able to improve skin hydration, elasticity and brightness in women ages 50 to 60. More specifically, plant stem cells could stimulate the production of collagen and elastin – the two proteins essential for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness, which in turn, helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.31 Alpine rose stem cells have also been found to help protect the skin from environmental stressors and they are rich in antioxidants, which can help to reduce inflammation and promote healthy skin cell growth.32
Argan stem cells, rich in flavonoids and other antioxidants, can stimulate cell growth and help to protect the skin from damage. These ingredients have additionally been found to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote healthy skin cell regeneration.32
Bamboo stem cells are rich in silica, which can help to improve skin texture and tone. They also have been found to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote healthy skin cell regeneration.32 In addition, research has shown that stem cells obtained from Coffea bengalensis culture and Nicotiana sylvestris can stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize collagen.33, 34
Anti-inflammation and acne: Numerous studies have investigated the anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne properties of various plant stem extracts. For example, lilac leaf (Syringa vulgaris) stem cell extract, which contains high levels of verbascoside, had a positive effect on the rehabilitation of inflamed, acneic, aged and photodamaged skin.35 Edelweiss stem cells contain high levels of antioxidants as well and have been found to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation and improve skin hydration and elasticity.32
Protective effects: Tomato stem cell extract (Lycopersicon esculentum), as previously described, is an excellent candidate for anti-aging skin care products. One tomato stem cell extract containing antioxidant compounds and metal chelating factors found to protect skin cells from heavy metal‐induced damage.16
Commercial Stem Cell Ingredients
As noted, plant stem cell-based cosmeceuticals have drawn good amount of attention – with a large number of producers, significant financial stakes and well-known brand names in the cosmetics sector. Following are some commercial examples available to product developers.
It is important to note that the term plant stem cells describing the following examples refers to extracts derived from plant primitive cells rather than live stem cells; those presented here are already dead.3
Apple, grape, floral and argan stem cells: Several years ago, in 2008, the Swiss company Mibelle AG Biochemistry pioneered the production of plant stem cells for use in the cosmetic industry, deriving them from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. The extracted stem cell was incorporated into lecithin liposomes as a carriera. A clinical study of the ingredient’s anti-wrinkle efficacy was performed in 20 volunteers, who used a cream containing 2% of the active for four weeks.4, 36 The results showed that after two and four weeks of use, wrinkles around the eyes were reduced by 8% and 15%, respectively.4
Following this ingredient, the company introduced a number of plant stem cell-derived extracts to the market, including those derived from Vitis vinifera (grape)b, the Alpine flower Saponaria pumilac and Argania spinosa (argan).d The products are available as suspensions and offer anti-wrinkle properties by boosting the activity of epidermis stem cells.29
Ginger leaf, iris, olive, hibiscus and tea stem cells: Naolys is a French company that specializes in plant cell culture extracts for the cosmetics industry. One product it offers is a combination of glycerin and stem cells derived from ginger leaf (Zingiber officinale)e.37 In a clinical trial of 22 women, after 28 days of use, the product was shown to restore skin structure, reducing pore size by nearly 50%, and to impart a mattifying effect – i.e., a 5% gloss reduction and 19% sebum reduction – observed after six days of use. In vitro assays also revealed a significant increase in the synthesis of elastin and fibers. Furthermore, the company reports the product offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as the ability to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Naolys offers glycerin extracts derived from the stem cells of a variety of plants, including Iris pallida (sweet iris), Olea europea (olive), Hibiscus rosa sinensis (Chinese hibiscus) and the tea plant Camellia sinensis. All of the extracts reportedly demonstrate anti-aging effects on the skin.38
Edelweiss stem cells: The Institute of Biotechnological Research (IRB), operating under Croda’s IRB brand via Sederma, is located in Italy and has evaluated the protective and anti-aging properties of stem cells derived from Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum). This particular stem cell extractf was found to contain high concentrations of leontopodic acids A and B, which exhibit potent antioxidant effects. The institute has employed proprietary techniques for extracting and formulating the stem cell extract to enhance its efficacy and ensure optimal stability.
Edelweiss stem cells have been found to provide several benefits for the skin, such as protection from environmental stressors like UV radiation, pollution and oxidative stress. Additionally, the stem cells can promote collagen synthesis, which is essential for skin elasticity and firmness. IRB’s research has shown that Edelweiss stem cells in cosmetic products may help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, as well as improve the overall health and vitality of skin.39, 40
Orange stem cells: Provital developed its Stem Cells Collection of ingredients including an orange stem cell productg that is described as a rich source of efficient anti-aging and antioxidant substances such as neohesperidin and naringin. Clinical research of a formula incorporating 3% active was applied twice daily by a group of 20 women between 41 and 55 years of age. After 56 days of using the test formula, compared with a placebo formula, the subjects found their skin elasticity increased up to 17.5%, along with other skin benefits.41
This observed increase in skin elasticity suggests the ingredient’s potential as an effective anti-aging agent. Neohesperidin and naringin, the key substances found in the orange stem cells, are known to exhibit potent antioxidant effects and may help to protect the skin against environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution.
Additional examples: Numerous other examples of companies around the world using plant stem cells to develop advanced cosmetic ingredients include: Active Concepts LLC (USA),42, 43 Akott Evolution (Italy),44 Biocosmethic (France), Infinitec (Spain), Innova BM (Bulgaria) and In vitro Plant-tech AB (Sweden).
Future View of Plant Stem Cells in Cosmetics
Plant stem cells have become an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetics due to their potential to improve the health and appearance of skin. As research into the benefits of plant stem cells continues, the future potential for their use in cosmetics is promising.
One possible avenue for future development is the use of plant stem cells in combination with other actives to enhance efficacy. For example, combining plant stem cells with peptides, vitamins or other antioxidants may help to improve skin texture, increase collagen synthesis and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
In addition, the use of plant stem cells from a wider range of plant species is under exploration. This includes examining plant stem cells from less common sources, such as marine plants and microalgae, which may have unique properties and benefits for the skin.
Still another area of focus is the further development of sustainable and environmentally friendly methods for plant stem cell extraction and production. This may involve utilizing biotechnology to grow and harvest plant cells in a more sustainable manner, or exploring alternative methods for plant cell culture.
Overall, the future for plant stem cells in cosmetics is promising. Further research and development in this area will elucidate the potential benefits and limitations of stem cells for skin health and continue to provide new and innovative ways to enhance skin health and appearance.
a PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica
b PhytoCellTec Solar Vitis
c PhytoCellTec Nunatak
d PhytoCellTec Argan
e Ginger Cells
f Majestem
g Citrustem
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