Quintis Sandalwood highlights Indian sandalwood oil as an alternative to CBD oil following a review of the scientific literature.

Related: Indian Sandalwood Oil Is a Potent Antioxidant

The company sought to assess the benefits of each and according to the company, Indian sandalwood oil showed similar scientifically proven benefits to CBD oil. The company's review identified five key benefits and claims, which are important for skin care formulations.

Wound Healing

Both CBD oil and Indian Sandalwood Oil have been found to act on keratinocyte proliferation to facilitate wound healing. They do this by stimulating the calcium channels on keratinocytes; however, Indian sandalwood oil acts specifically on the receptor OR2AT4,⁴ while CBD oil acts specifically on the CBD CB-1 receptor.⁶

Skin Brightening

Studies showed that Indian sandalwood oil inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, which is responsible for uneven skin tone, dark spots and pigmentation.⁵ Conversely, the company found no research to suggest CBD inhibits tyrosinase or reduces melanin production; its brightening claims instead stem from the ingredient's antioxidant properties.

Antioxidant

A recent study published in the Cosmetics Journal, commissioned by the company, found Indian sandalwood oil to be a potent antioxidant that works on the keratinocytes to protect the skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by environmental stressors such as blue light and pollution. These ROS cause damage to cell structures and break down collagen, reducing elasticity and causing an uneven skin tone.¹ As noted, CBD oil shows similar antioxidant properties, working on the keratinocytes to protect the skin from ROS.^{6, 7}

Previously: Quintis Sandalwood x ASP Launch Global Competition for Perfumers

Anti-inflammatory

Indian sandalwood oil also has demonstrated the ability to inhibit the production of cytokines/chemokines (IL, TNF-α) and prostaglandins, all of which cause inflammation in the skin—resulting in pigmentation and collagen degradation. The oil also up-regulates 11βHSD1 enzyme to covert inflammatory cortisone to inactive cortisol.^2-4 CBD was shown to stimulate the CB-2 receptors in skin to reduce cytokine chemokine altough the mechanism remains ambiguous.^{6, 7}

Anti-aging

Finally, Indian sandalwood oil was found to inhibit the MMP1 enzyme generated in the skin upon exposure to certain internal and environmental stressors. This enzyme is responsible for breaking down collagen.¹ In contrast, according to the company, to date there is no research to suggest that CBD can inhibit the MMP1 enzyme. Again, CBD’s anti-aging claims stem from its antioxidant properties.

References

1. Francois-Newton, V., et al. (2021). Antioxidant and anti-aging potential of Indian sandalwood oil against environmental stressors in vitro and ex vivo. Cosmetics 8(2) 53.

2. Sharma, M., et al. (2018). East Indian sandalwood oil is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor: A new therapeutic option in the treatment of inflammatory skin disease. Frontiers in Pharmacology 9 200.

3. Sharma, M., et al. (2014). Suppression of lipopolysaccharide-stimulated cytokine/chemokine production in skin cells by sandalwood oils and purified α-santalol and β-santalol. Phytotherapy Research 28(6) 925-932.

4. Moy, R.L. and C. Levenson (2017). Sandalwood album oil as a botanical therapeutic in dermatology. J Clin and Aesthetic Derm 10(10) 34.

5. Misra, B.B. and Dey, S. (2013). TLC-bioautographic evaluation of in vitro anti-tyrosinase and anti-cholinesterase potentials of sandalwood oil. Natural Product Communications 8(2) 1934578X1300800231.

6. Baswan, S.M., Klosner, A.E., Glynn, K., Rajgopal, A., Malik, K., Yim, S. and Stern, N. (2020). Therapeutic potential of cannabidiol (CBD) for skin health and disorders. Clinical, Cosmetic and Invest Derm 13, 927.

7. Liu, C., Li, H., Xu, F., Jiang, X., Ma, H. and Seeram, N.P. (2021). Cannabidiol protects human skin keratinocytes from hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative dtress via modulation of the caspase-1–IL-1β axis. J Nat Prods 84(5) 1563.