Givaudan's Illuminyl 388 Delivers Inclusive, Prebiotic Skin Brightening

Givaudan Active Beauty's Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol (EGCG; epigallocatechin gallate) prebiotic skin brightening active with universal efficacy against skin pigmentation for all skin types.

The technology is being positioned as an alternative to brightening technologies such as vitamin C. 

Illuminyl 388 reportedly targets multiple skin pigmentation pathways, paired with prebiotic activity to deliver brightening for skin types from Africa, Asia, India and Europe.

The ingredient's sugar moiety reportedly allows it to penetrate deep into the skin via cellular glucose receptors; that moiety also confers on the molecule a prebiotic activity that reportedly stimulates the in-situ release of a niacin-derivative by the skin microflora.

Givaudan has given the new material a B-Biome score of B, signaling that the active works in synergy with the microbiome to preserve the general balance of the skin’s microbiota.

The company launched the scoring mechanism in June 2023 to underscore technologies that are microbiome-friendly, scientifically demonstrated, backed by a scientific publication and endorsed by a dermatological expert.

In clinical studies involving more than 200 with skin tones representative of African, Asian, Indian and Caucasian backgrounds,  Illuminyl 388 was reportedly found to enhance skin tone, luminosity and radiance within two weeks.

Within one month, Illuminyl 388 reduced pigmentation spots, per the company.

In addition, it enhanced homogeneity of skin tone, including age spots. 

In the forthcoming April edition of Global Cosmetic Industry, Fabrice Lefèvre, marketing and innovation director, Givaudan Active Beauty, says of the new technology:

Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol, based on cell free glycosylation.

This biotech improved EGCG molecule drastically improves the molecular stability, solubility and biodisponibility.

Targeting all the main stages of the pigmentation process (melanogenesis, tyrosinase activity, melanin transfer…), together with a powerful antioxidant activity, this new active efficiently brightens the skin tone.

This action is innovatively reinforced by a synergistic prebiotic activity, favoring the growth of specific bacteria in the skin microbiome, releasing a powerful niacin-derivative.

Givaudan will feature the ingredient in S3D Lumière Noire, a concept formulation, during the upcoming in-cosmetics Global event in Paris.

Daniel Auriol, scientific director biotechnology, Givaudan Active Beauty, noted, “Givaudan Active Beauty continues to push the boundaries of innovation with Illuminyl 388: we are not only targeting all the major pigmentation pathways but we also trigger the skin microbiota to produce whitening postbiotics. Whether it's improving skin radiance and luminosity, promoting even skin tone, or reducing pigmentation spots, Illuminyl 388 outperforms traditional benchmarks such as vitamin C. It is a testament to our commitment to redefining beauty standards and empowering individuals worldwide.”